The redevelopment of traffic-choked William Street has long been a political hot potato.
But rather than wait for a masterplan for a strip once dubbed "the boulevard of broken dreams", The Strand Hotel in Darlinghurst has pushed on with its own update.
Its new French-inspired bistro is a pretty addition to the busy arterial.
With a soon-to-open boutique hotel and rooftop bar above, head chef Alex Kavanagh has a food line-up that jumps from spoons of Beluga caviar to breast of duck served with plum and radicchio, and steak frites.
The opening menu also includes "Le Burger" with gruyere.
The main menu is available until 10pm but a smaller bar menu goes until just after 2am.
The Strand is the first in a series of new venues Public Hospitality plans to open over the next year.
With a vision to restore heritage buildings to their former state, Camelia Grove in Alexandria, Erskineville's Kurrajong Hotel and the Town Hall in Balmain are all on the group's to-do list.
Open Sun-Thu 6am-midnight; Fri-Sat 6am-3am.
99 William Street, Darlinghurst, 02 9068 8527, thestrand-hotel.com