Tiny 14-seat taqueria Nativo Mexican opens in Pyrmont

Sydney isn't short of Mexican food. Indeed, the last few years have been nothing short of a Mexican wave.

But a new taqueria opening on Tuesday, November 1 in Pyrmont has our attention given its Mexican chef-owner spent time in Michelin-starred restaurants in France and promises traditional Mexican with the occasional native Australian twist.

Intrigued? Us too. But where exactly does that cocktail of influences lead?

Nativo Mexican Taqueria's owner-chef Manuel Diaz explains he's using lemon myrtle oil, and says his experience at Michelin-starred restaurant La Chevre d'Or will contribute a little French technique.

The beef brisket, for example, gets an eight-hour sous vide treatment in a tequila and beer marinade following four hours of traditional slow-cooking.

After also working in upmarket restaurants in Mexico City and Sydney, including Santa Catarina and Bar Patron at Circular Quay, where he was executive chef, Diaz yearned for a more low-key experience.

"I wanted to be close to people, and you don't get closer than a taqueria, where the chef can talk to the customer and see if they liked the flavour or liked the texture," Diaz says.

Nativo is a bricks-and-mortar street-food venue, with the tiny eatery opening onto an outdoor area with 14 al fresco seats.

Diaz chose Pyrmont because of its neighbourhood feel despite its close proximity to the city, and locals "who appreciate good food".

"I've done a few soft runs leading up to the opening and the people are really friendly; it's a charming neighbourhood," he says.

Visitors will find it located above John Street Square Light Rail station.

The compact menu includes pork shoulder tacos with saltbush salsa, guacamole and lemon myrtle oil. There's also a rare octopus taco, and quesadilla rolls.

Diaz argues the best Mexican food is inspired by ideas developed by its indigenous communities and ancestors of the country.

"I've crafted a menu that honours these flavours and traditions, and we celebrate our union with the Australian community by complimenting these recipes with native Australian ingredients," he says.

Open Tue-Sat 11am-8.30pm.

Shop 6, 45-55 Harris Street, Pyrmont, nativomexican.com.au