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A Sydney fine-diner is now selling natural oysters for $8 each

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

The Tathra oyster is grown for five years for extra creaminess.
The Tathra oyster is grown for five years for extra creaminess.Edwina Pickles

Woolloomooloo fine diner Otto Ristorante has set a new level for shellfish prices by charging $8 for a single Sydney rock oyster.

The $8 bivalve is grown by Tathra Oysters in Nelson Lake on the NSW south coast. For something that only takes a few seconds to eat, Otto chef Richard Ptacnik said the oyster's price is justified by its rarity.

"They take five to six years to produce in pristine national park waters and only have a short season. Like all exceptional and rare ingredients, they come at a cost."

Pambula rock oysters at The Morrison, Sydney.
Pambula rock oysters at The Morrison, Sydney.Jennifer Soo
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Sydney rock oysters have hovered around the $5 mark at fine-dining restaurants for the past three years. It is understood this is the first time a single, natural Sydney rock oyster has retailed for $8.

For an extra $25, Otto guests can have a spoonful of oscietra sturgeon caviar served with each oyster, potentially increasing the price of a half-dozen to $198.

"The saltiness of the caviar and the clean flavour of the oyster are an indulgent match," said Mr Ptacnik. "It's the ultimate luxury combination of two highly prized ingredients." (Otto also serves what might be Sydney's most expensive pasta with a designed-to-share eastern rock lobster spaghetti weighing in at $220.)

The same Tathra oysters are on the menu at Rockpool Bar and Grill in the CBD, but priced at $6.50 each instead of Otto's ceiling-breaking $8.

"We felt $6.50 was more than enough for an oyster, even one as costly and as amazing as those grown by our good friend Gary Rodley down at Tathra," said Rockpool culinary director Neil Perry.

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Tathra oysters have been grown and harvested by the Rodely family for more than three decades and boast 64 medals from 64 entries in the Sydney Royal Fine Food Show since first judged in 2001.

Sydney rock oysters take two to four years to reach market size, however Gary Rodely grows his award-winning bivalves for at least five years before harvest.

"It's our belief the spectacular Sydney rock aftertaste and creamy richness is best achieved with an oyster that's more mature," said Mr Rodely.

"That doesn't mean they're big oysters. We could certainly grow them bigger by keeping them submerged for longer, but we allow them to do what nature intended and come out of the water twice a day at low tide. We reckon that's the secret to obtaining an oyster's special flavour."

Sydney Royal Aquaculture chair of judges, John Susman, believes $8 is a "bloody bargain" for a championship oyster from the NSW south coast.

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"The days of all-can-eat oyster buffets at Rooty Hill RSL are well and truly behind us," said Mr Susman. "If the oyster is perfectly sourced, stored, shucked and presented, then you can hardly argue with the price. Compared to other luxury items, it represents better value than a teaspoon of caviar or one slice of imported Iberico ham."

Mr Susman said oysters are now being marketed not just by region and species (pacific or Sydney rock) but also by grower.

"Hero growers such has Gary Rodely, Garry Collison [Comerong Bay], Warwick Anderson [Kingfisher Oysters] and Shane Buckley [Wapengo Rocks] are achieving the same rockstar status as esteemed winemakers."

HOW TO JUDGE AN OYSTER

For the first time in the competition's 18-year history, oyster judging will be held live at the Sydney Royal Easter Show on April 12. "It'll be more fun than a toffee apple and more thrilling than the Mad Mouse," said chair of judges John Susman.

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Mr Susman also recommends attending the Narooma Oyster Show on May 4 for the opportunity to try oysters from up to 10 south coast estuaries and engage directly with the growers.

These are the key qualities the oyster judge said diners should look for when paying top dollar for a restaurant oyster.

Appearance

"The oyster should be freshly shucked to achieve a surround sound cinema-style eating experience by comparison to the AM transistor static of a pre-opened oyster. I believe it should also be turned in the shell to present the flesh of the oyster facing up. The body should be full and plump and consistent in colour with no translucent flesh."

Aroma

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"Ideally, the oyster should have a sweet, bright clean aroma, the nuances of which might include notes of cucumber and melon. There should be no fishy or 'rotten vegetable' aromas."

Taste

"With a Sydney rock oyster you're assessing five pitstops of flavour: brine, creaminess, sweetness, mineralisation and umami. You don't want one flavour to be stronger than the others – like any outstanding wine or luxury food, balance is key. The art of the grower lies in manipulating their oysters to achieve this balance."

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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