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Andy Bowdy to open cake shop in Exchange Building at Darling Square

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Andy Bowdy's choc-fudge and Milo mousse Jasper cake.
Andy Bowdy's choc-fudge and Milo mousse Jasper cake.Edwina Pickles

Architect Kengo Kuma's circular building rising on the former site of Sydney's Entertainment Centre looks a little like a designer cake, making chef Andy Bowdy the perfect tenant.

The pin-up boy of sweet-toothed Sydneysiders since his days in the kitchen at Hartsyard, Bowdy has confirmed he'll open a venue at Kuma's The Exchange building, which has already signed up the team from the Golden Century.

Known for creations such as a mardi gras special of soft-serve ice-cream with fairy bread and sugar lips, Bowdy's cakes have earned a cult following, rivalling Black Star's watermelon cake.

Andy Bowdy and partner and co-owner Maddison Howes.
Andy Bowdy and partner and co-owner Maddison Howes.Edwina Pickles
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"We'll do the cakes, and I'd like to revisit soft serve. The space will be tight, but I want to do pies, which I've done as specials [at his Saga outlet in Enmore], including a lamb shoulder vindaloo pie," Bowdy says.

When it opens next year, Bowdy will have some interesting neighbours.

The "upmarket marketplace" space, which is being called Maker's Dozen, has already nabbed the collective talents of Banksii and Ume to open a Japanese pasta collaboration.

A render of the new building coming to Darling Square.
A render of the new building coming to Darling Square.Supplied

Good Food understands they'll be joined by Mr Bao Buns, Sonoma and a new venue from Marrickville's Bucket Boys bottle shop and bar.

Kuma won't design Maker's Dozen interior; local outfit Anthony Gill Architects is responsible for the space.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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