Are BYO restaurants making a Melbourne comeback?

In the pages of The Age 25 years ago, restaurateur Mario De Pasquale compared the practice of bringing wine to a restaurant to bringing a net to a tennis match.

"I've been fighting the BYO for years. I've always thought it's the most ridiculous thing – it's so archaic," said the co-founder of Marios​ cafe in Fitzroy.

In 1994, the Italian expat said BYO was on its last legs. "Quite honestly I'm surprised there's still a group of people who care about it," De Pasquale said.

But quarter of a century on, restaurants that allow people to tote their own wine are noticing a pick-up, particularly among twenty-something diners.

Antoine Taouk, co-owner of Lebanese eatery Teta Mona in Brunswick East, says BYO popularity among university students and young professionals is surging.

"This area's full of young people living in share houses. We get heaps of big group bookings, and they like it because they can let their mates know it'll be $40 per head for a great meal and dessert," says Taouk.

"A big part of the BYO factor is removing the worry it will be a $1000 bill for 10 people because of exorbitant drink costs."

Taouk says allowing people to bring their own drinks gives Teta Mona a homely feel. "It creates this personal atmosphere that makes people feel like they're at home or at a mate's place with their favourite grog. They're meeting in a place that's comfortable and casual," he says.

Such is BYO's popularity that wine retailer Cellarmasters has just launched an app locating more than 3200 restaurants around the country that allow customers to bring their own booze.

The free app, BYO Finder, helps users find nearby restaurants, suggests wines to match with menus, and allows customers to book an Uber directly to the venue.

Cellarmaster's general manager, Ben Copeham-Hill, says diners love to know they can enjoy a great bottle when they dine, which is why they prefer BYO restaurants.

BYO has formed an important part of Melbourne's dining culture since the 1960s, when increasing disposable income levels led to more dining out while full liquor licences were scarce and costly.

It was the era of the 6 o'clock swill, when thirsty punters would scurry to the front bar to order their last pint before the beer taps were turned off.

Local authorities reacted to Italian restaurants doing a roaring trade in bottles of cola and cups of tea – smelling suspiciously of fermented grapes – by introducing BYO licences in 1965.

By 1994, there were 2285 BYO licences in Victoria. This number has dropped to 1173 today, while the number of fully licensed venues has jumped five-fold over the same period to more than 23,000.

Susanna Chen, of Chinese Dumpling Master in Newtown, in Sydney's inner-south, says allowing customers to BYO is an important part of the restaurant's success.

"It allows people to enjoy what kind of brand they want, to bring their favourite wine or beer," she says. "And we don't have a big space for a bar or to stock many different brands, so it makes sense for us."

Some of Melbourne's BYO champions

Abla's, 109 Elgin Street, Carlton

D.O.C., 295 Drummond Street, Carlton

France-Soir, 11 Toorak Road, South Yarra

Hu Tong Dumpling Bar, 14-16 Market Lane, Melbourne

Jim's Greek Tavern, 32 Johnston Street, Collingwood

Matteo's, 533 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy North

Shizuku Ramen and Craft Beer, 309 Victoria Street, Abbotsford

Stalactites Greek Restaurant, 177-183 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne

Teta Mona, 100A Lygon Street, Brunswick East

The Waiters Restaurant, 20 Meyers Place, Melbourne