Bertha's Meats barbecue moves into Biota

Anyone keen for grilled fish on Good Friday will be out of luck at Bertha's Meats, an American-style barbecue joint launching over the Easter long weekend at Biota, Bowral.

"I think I have a sardine garum out the back of the Biota kitchen if anyone wants fish sauce brushed across their brisket," says Biota owner-chef James Viles. "Bertha's isn't a seafood or vegetable-focused restaurant. It's all about ethically sourced meat cooked very simply and properly."

Viles' Southern Highlands spin on low-and-slow barbecue will open in the space formerly occupied by Biota's Scando-style front bar. The room has been refurbished with dark recycled timber and guests will be able to sit around a custom grill flaming T-bones served with an optional fried egg and "dirty gravy" made from beef bones.

Pasture-fed beef brisket will be a menu constant, plus pork-ribs, sausage sangers, Nashville-style chicken wings, macadamia pie and fried mortadella supplied by LP's Quality Meats.

"We'll also have a weekly special such as suckling pig or hot-smoked kangaroo tail," says Viles. House-made barbecue sauce features native pepper and Davidson plum, and an offset smoker will be fuelled by local redgum and fruit timbers.

Bertha's walls have been insulated to prevent blues music bleeding into Biota's two-hatted dining room, takeaway will be an option and Young Henrys is set to flow from the beer taps.

"We wanted to create a venue where chefs in the region can hang out, too," says Viles. "There's not a lot of places hospitality staff can head after work for a quality drink and feed."

Viles stresses that Biota prime won't be playing second fiddle to its new meat-loving sibling.

"They'll have separate car parks, entrances and kitchen teams," he says. "I'll be in Biota full-time while [current Biota head chef] Ryan Kovac will take charge of Bertha's.

"There's always been competition between Biota's bar food and the restaurant, with dishes from both menus cooked in the same kitchen. Bertha's will really free me up to focus on the restaurant side of things."

Open Wed-Sun for lunch and dinner.

18 Kangaloon Road, Bowral, 02 4861 3647, berthasmeats.com