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Brekkie, brunch or lunch at Happyfield leaves a warm glow

Lenny Ann Low
Lenny Ann Low

The fried eggs and toast, with avocado and bacon.
The fried eggs and toast, with avocado and bacon.Janie Barrett

A visit to Happyfield, Haberfield's newest, possibly only Northern American diner-style, cafe, is like walking into the sun.

Ringed by yellow outdoor chairs and mustard-edged windows, this dashing corner restaurant in the heart of Italian suburbia glows.

Inside, in an airy wood-floored space, are padded banquettes the colour of maple syrup, upholstered bar stools in a sunshine hue.

Sweet stack pancakes.
Sweet stack pancakes.Janie Barrett
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Menus come in yellow leather slip cases and even looking up is cheering with Happyfield's pressed metal ceiling painted an egg yolk colour.

A curved and chrome-edged wooden counter is the anchor point for smiling, moustachioed baristas. The exposed brick walls softly lit by Art Deco pendant lights and every table has salt and pepper shakers with yellow tops.

Co-owned by Chris Theodosi and Canadian Jesse Orleans, who met while working at the Grounds of Alexandria, Happyfield opened in October.

The bright and colourful Haberfield venue.
The bright and colourful Haberfield venue.Janie Barrett

It's increasingly popular and filled with all ages, including kids, older folks grazing on steak and egg with grilled gem lettuce and pancake fans in exercise gear sipping Margarita cocktails.

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Pancakes are billed as "proper" here. Made to Orleans's specifications they are light but not stodgy, perfectly round and easy to fold in layers onto a fork.

We order a Sweet Stack, a fine mix of two pancakes, charred banana, blueberries, strawberries, whipped cream and a jar of Canadian maple syrup.

Pink juice.
Pink juice.Janie Barrett

The pancakes are good though verging on pricey. An order of Happiest Eggs, two perfectly fried sunny side ups with toast and Pepe Saya butter, come with three sides: fat ribbons of smoked Canadian bacon, half an avocado and sauteed mushrooms. It is hard not to eat like a wild banshee.

The sides, which take pride of place on Happyfield's menu, are almost worth the trip.

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A meal of house made hashbrowns with chilli mayonnaise, coils of salmon smoked in-house and baked cranberry and Great Northern beans paired with chef Orleans's tomato sauce is entirely possible. All in all our dishes are a proper diner brekkie, even at 1pm on a hot summer's afternoon.

Another ray of sunshine is the service. Staff are cheery and completely in-sync. We're never forgotten and the food, along with hot drinks and a Pink Juice featuring watermelon, strawberry and mint, is swiftly delivered.

And, as Happyfield is licensed, adults can pair their eggs, pancakes, burgers, mortadella rolls, pasta or Barramundi with one of six cocktails, or nine varieties of wine, beer or cider from Australia, New Zealand and France.

Five Senses coffee comes white, black, espresso, iced, filter and batch, with a bottomless option, and there's a rainbow of juice choices, lemonades, iced teas and shakes including a hedonistic-looking sticky date version.

Life needs cheer and brightness and softly upholstered banquettes on which to eat piles of excellent smokey Canadian pancakes.

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The sunshine flavours of Happyfield last long after leaving, particularly as, if you want a copy of the bill, it's printed on yellow paper.

The low-down

Happyfield

Where: 96 Ramsay Street, Haberfield, 9716 5168, happyfield.com.au

Main attraction: A buzzing inner west diner with pick-me-up cheerfulness, dapper golden yellow decor and strong attention to detail in table service, menu variety and coffee choices.

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Must-try dish: Any amount of eggs (sunny side up recommended), the Grounds sourdough toast and as many sides as possible, specifically smokey Canadian bacon, potato hash browns, thin French fries and hot smoked salmon.

Insta-worthy dish: McLovin Muffin, an English muffin filled with two chicken sausage patties, layers of egg, chipotle mayonnaise and cheddar cheese, wrapped in paper with cartoon pancake sticker.

Drinks: Five Senses coffee $4-$7; tea $4; juices $8; lemonades $7; shakes $9; kombucha $7.50; soft drinks $4.50; iced tea $6; sparkling water $4-$5; cocktails $12-$17; wine $8-$54; beer and cider $8-$10

Prices: Toast $8; Eggs $12-$70; sides $5; pancakes $14-$21; breakfast bowls $16-$17; burgers $12-$15; lunch mains $18-$26; kids menu $7-$10

Hours: Tue-Fri 7.30am-3.30pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm

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Lenny Ann LowLenny Ann Low is a writer and podcaster.

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