The curtain has come down at Chairman Mao, the celebrated Chinese restaurant on an inauspicious strip of Anzac Parade in Kensington.
The Chairman's pig ears and signature braised pork belly – which one reviewer described as "so indulgently wobbly it melts off your chopsticks" – propelled the restaurant to cult hit status a decade ago.
It was popular with a who's who of chefs, among them Neil Perry, who slid into a dining room of bold-coloured walls covered in propaganda posters.
Thankfully, Chairman Mao isn't slated for the same fate as its historic namesake, who was embalmed and left as a static reminder of history. Chairman Mao, the restaurant, has found new digs.
It will reopen in coming months at 8 Greenknowe Avenue, just off the restaurant-rich Macleay Street strip at Potts Point.
The restaurant's Hunanese menu, which balances hot, sweet and sour flavours through smoking, steaming and slow-cooking, will make the journey.
And word on the eat streets of Potts Point and Elizabeth Bay is the bare-boned original might make the great leap forward, with a few more luxury accoutrements second time around.