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Chefs pop up, take over and hit the road this summer in Victoria

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Roaming chef Harry Mangat of Biji Dining is bringing his Indian-Australian cooking to the Mornington Peninsula.
Roaming chef Harry Mangat of Biji Dining is bringing his Indian-Australian cooking to the Mornington Peninsula.Parker Blain

Victorian chefs are using summer to do some exploring of their own, with short-term residencies, weekend winery appearances and one-off events coming thick and fast.

Harry Mangat has taken his roaming Biji Dining concept back to Red Hill after a stint in Queensland. He's cooking Australo-Indian dishes at Avani Wines for the next month or so, including kangaroo paav with coconut and pickled daikon and chai custard with black pepper meringue. Guest chefs such as Anchovy's Thi Le and Etta's Rosheen Kaul join him on select dates.

Lunch Fri-Mon until February 14, 98 Stanleys Road, Red Hill South. $85 for four courses or $110 for guest chef lunches. Book via avanisyrah.com.au

Besan pakora from Harry Mangat's menu at Avani Wines.
Besan pakora from Harry Mangat's menu at Avani Wines.Parker Blain
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Previous Avani guest Mischa Tropp has hopped over to nearby Tucks, setting up his Elsie's barbecue truck each weekend and cooking the likes of prawns and tandoori chicken over charcoal. Other snacks might include Goan-style fish cutlets or spiced legume dish misal pav, but whatever's on offer, it'll liven up your picnic rug this summer.

Sat 11am-6.30pm, Sun 11am-5pm until February 27. 37 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South. No bookings.

The Moon's chef Charley Snadden-Wilson is crossing the Yarra each weekend to play with fire at Milton Wine Shop. His wood-fired set-up in the courtyard hits zucchini, peaches, lamb and more, with the chargrilled flavours paired with Holy Goat cheese and other local treats, plus something delicious from the bottle shop, naturally. It's a training ground for his forthcoming venue, Clover Vin de Cave, so consider this your sneak peek.

Comma Food & Wine's Matt Woodhouse (left) and Michael Harrison of Pretty Little are teaming up for a series of dinners in February.
Comma Food & Wine's Matt Woodhouse (left) and Michael Harrison of Pretty Little are teaming up for a series of dinners in February.Supplied

Fri 3pm-9pm, Sat 1pm-9pm, Sun 1pm-6pm. 1427 Malvern Road, Malvern. Book via miltonwine.com

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Thankfully this isn't a temporary thing: Zac Nicholson of Rockpool and Hazel fame is now on the pans at Preston winery Jamsheed. He takes over from brother Josh Nicholson who's moved to Newcastle and will be juggling the gig with his full-time job at City Larder. Ex-Rockpool chef Johnny Lee is on hand to help. The playful menu brings together cucumber sandwiches, crisps with french onion dip, halloumi with honeycomb, swordfish schnitzel and grilled veg skewers.

Fri 5pm-9.30pm, Sat noon-9.30pm, Sun noon-4pm. 4 Albert Street, Preston. Book via jamsheed.com.au

Horsham is in for a treat when local chef Stewart Neighbour and city slicker Sam Pinzone cook together next month in a 100-year-old cattle shed. Neighbour trained with Pinzone many years ago and went on to work at Frangos and Frangos, among other venues, while Pinzone is now a consultant to chefs and restaurateurs in Melbourne. Expect Mediterranean-influenced dishes with flair paired with French wine.

February 4 & 5, 22 McBryde Street, Horsham, from $200 for 7 courses and wine. Book via horshamshow.com.au

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It's double trouble in Balaclava, as Matt Woodhouse of Comma Food & Wine steps on to Michael Harrison's home turf at Pretty Little restaurant. The pair – one a Welshman, the other a Melbourne native – will each take half of the six-course menu, which may range from torched mackerel with harissa and leek to summer-tastic dishes featuring figs or tomatoes. Expect great wine pairings from venue owner Mike Byard and plenty of chat about the art and craft of cooking.

February 2-5 & February 9-12, 296 Carlisle Street, Balaclava, $94 for six courses (additional $85 for wine pairing). Book via prettylittle.com.au

Northsiders are in for a double act of grand proportions when Donovan Cooke and George Calombaris team up at Cooke's restaurant Ryne next month, continuing a tradition of cooking together that goes back more than 30 years and includes restaurants Est Est Est and Fenix. For this collab, expect a truckload of technique and plenty of happy memories distilled into six courses.

February 13, 203 St George's Road, Fitzroy North, $150 for six courses (additional $90 for wine pairing). Book via ryne.com.au

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And for those wondering what else George is up to, you can catch him down at Hotel Sorrento, where he's created a menu of souvlaki and other casual Greek eats for the summer. Soft shell crab and artichoke arancini join the usual suspects in the wraps, while dips, salads and pita are there for lighter snacking.

Mon-Thurs noon-3pm 5pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 5-15 Hotham Road, Sorrento, hotelsorrento.com.au

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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