Cherries haven't tasted this good in years, say NSW farmers

Crack open the kirsch and dust off the nice fruit bowl. Cherries haven't tasted this good in years, say NSW farmers.

"With all the rain we've had, tree health is the best it has been in a long time," says Michael Hamdan, who grows cherries in Wombat, just south of Young.

"Soil conditions are back to where they were five years ago, before the drought. When the soil is happy, the fruit is happy."

With his father Khodr, Hamdan harvests 16 varieties of the glossy fruit at their neighbouring Wombat Heights and Hill-Lock orchards, family owned since 1998.

"Everyone is always interested in the Ron's [Seedling] variety," says Hamdan. "They're the big, crunchy black-ish ones. Also popular is the Sunburst, with its large, sweet fruit, and the heart-shaped maroon-coloured Lapins."

Young and Orange are the traditional cherry producing areas of NSW, however the fruit is increasingly being grown in regions such as Mudgee, Wellington and Batlow.

"I wouldn't say we're expecting a massive crop, but the harvest is certainly looking healthy," says BiteRiot! owner Fiona Hall, who grows cherries in volcanic soils at the foot of Mount Canobolas near Orange.

"The cherries are getting back to a nice, normal size after being quite small and super sweet last year. All the good nutrients are returning to the soil. You irrigate and do what you can when there's drought, but it's never the same as having rainfall."

NSW cherry season began last week and will run through to February. A key event on the farming calendar is Sydney Markets' charity auction of the season's first box of cherries, but COVID-19 restrictions meant the live event was cancelled for the first time in 40 years.

Sydney Markets asked members of the public to nominate local heroes to receive a box of new-season cherries instead, set to be delivered this week.

"Amongst all the challenges [of 2020] there are countless stories of courage, resilience, camaraderie and mateship," says Sydney Markets chief executive Brad Latham.

First-box recipients announced on Saturday included nurses at Liverpool Hospital's respiratory ward, Lindfield East Public teachers for "going above and beyond" with home-schooling classes, and farmer Brendan Farrell, who coordinated hay deliveries to drought-stricken areas.

Young's National Cherry Festival was also called off due to COVID-19 safety rules, however there are still many opportunities for a cherry fix in the region, says Hilltops Tourism manager Brent Randall.

"Cherry lovers missing the festival should put Young Farmers' Market in their diary for December 5," he says. "It will be our biggest market of the year, with a lot of local cherry farmers making an appearance."

Randall says fans of the fruit can expect cherry pies and ice-cream, plus cherry jam, cordial, wine and even a cherry port created by local distillery Bluestill.

"If you can make it out of a cherry, we've got it."

Cherries 101

Buying

Select firm, bright, shiny cherries with green stems attached. In the week before Christmas, look to buy local Lapins, Simone and Black Douglas varieties, which will be at their best, says Michael Hamdan. "The Black Douglas has a long green stem and dark colour. It's the perfect Christmas cherry."

Storing

Eat any cherries without a stem immediately. Store the rest in a loose bag or airtight container in the fridge and eat within four days.

Picking

Many NSW farms are open for pick-your-own cherries, and the National Cherry Festival website has an excellent map detailing all the orchard doors around Young and the Hilltops region. Some farms are happy for you to bring a picnic too, such as Wombat Heights and Main Range Orchard.

Eating

Christmas and cherries go together like Paul Kelly and gravy. A chilled bowl of the fruit should be on the go throughout December, and Milan Cricket Club chef Nicholas Hill also recommends adding cherries to turkey stuffing.

"Onions, walnuts, thyme, brandy, breadcrumbs, cherries and a bit of liver pate," he says. "It's a proper winner."

Cherries and almonds get along great mates, and Hill suggests combining the two in a salad. "Chopped cherries with green beans is nice, just add some flaked almonds cooked in brown butter. Keep it super simple."

The former Sepia pastry chef also likes to warm cherries in their own juice and serve over ice-cream.

"Blitz a few pitted cherries with a pinch of sugar and splash of water. Warm that juice in a pan and add a handful of halved cherries and a drizzle of olive oil. Pour over vanilla ice-cream and it's just the best summer dessert."