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Christmas in July back on the menu for Melbourne restaurants

Dani Valent
Dani Valent

Vaporetto owner David Wickar prepares for Christmas in July.
Vaporetto owner David Wickar prepares for Christmas in July.Eddie Jim

David Wickwar has never considered Christmas in July before. "We probably thought it was a bit cheesy for Melbourne," he says. The fact that his Hawthorn restaurant Vaporetto is now boxing up prawn cocktails, ham and turkey is just one more 'unprecedented' that 2020 has bestowed upon him. "At the moment, any excuse to celebrate, have good cheer and distract ourselves is a good thing," he says.

As well as offering something different for the Venetian restaurant's regulars, Wickwar is happy to keep his staff engaged. "It's a way to be occupied, inspired and excited," he says. The festivities also include a Christmas concert with singer Robert Rothko recorded at the restaurant. The YouTube link will arrive with the takeaway hamper. "It's a way for us to celebrate with our regulars without being in the same room," says Wickwar.

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Rochford Wines in the Yarra Valley also has prepared Christmas feasts with virtual togetherness in mind. "A lot of family groups have bought them and they're going to Zoom with the different households," says marketing manager Maddy Jones. Their menu offers a choice of maple-glazed ham or slow-cooked beef brisket, both with duck fat roasted potatoes and Christmas bon-bons. "It's a reminder that we should be thankful for the things we can have right now, and if you can be with the people in your house and celebrate that, then it's great for everyone's mental health," says Jones.

Adrianna Burchall has ordered one of the Rochford hampers to enjoy with her husband at home in Montmorency. "We would have celebrated our anniversary at Rochford next week," she says. "We can't do that but the hamper is a treat and I'm glad to support the winery." She's planning to decorate the house "because there's nothing else to do" and pin up the stockings. "I'm also going to put on my snowflake PJs," she says.

Christmas in July lunch at Vaporetto.
Christmas in July lunch at Vaporetto. Eddie Jim

In Mount Eliza, Clare Parks has the tree up, Santa installed and the nativity set out. Along with husband Dan and their four kids, they went to England last year for a long-planned northern hemisphere Christmas only to have it coincide with her mother's death from cancer. "It was hard and then along comes COVID shortly after," she says. "We've never done Christmas in July but we thought, let's just do it, let's give the kids some joy."

She's planning a traditional dinner. "We don't have much money, and I'm not sure if I'll find a turkey, but I'll try," she says. "We'll put carols on and make it as special as we can." She's particularly hoping to cheer up Imogen, 11 and in Year 6. "She's school captain, has a role in the school musical and there's a Sovereign Hill trip they wait their whole primary school life for," she says. "Those things are out of our control and they suck, but what can we do? We do things we can to make it nicer." She's confident Christmas in July will be a bright spot. "The kids will remember something really positive that came out of this time," she says.

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Ready for Christmas

Meatsmith has ham on the bone and special bacon-and-sage-stuffed turkey breast. meatsmith.com.au

Cannoleria by That's Amore is doing a special pannettone cannoli, $4, cannoleriabythatsamore.com.au

The Grand is doing roast duck with juniper sauce as part of a $55 Christmas menu next Friday grandrichmond.com.au

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Dani ValentDani Valent is a food writer and restaurant reviewer.

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