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Destination distillery: the Australian spirit producers worth travelling for

Katie Spain
Katie Spain

Never Never Distilling Co's Sean Baxter.
Never Never Distilling Co's Sean Baxter.Ryan Noreiks

What started as a trickle has turned into a stream of distilleries throwing open their doors.

The ongoing boom in Australian gin and whiskey production and consumption has resulted in a multitude of excellent tasting spaces springing up across the nation. Since 1990, more than 300 distilleries have opened for business, and as the number increases the bar is set higher. .

Top-notch distilleries have become destinations in their own right. In a bid to compete for attention, they've upped the ante on their level of hospitality, experiences and settings.

And none are working harder than regional distilleries to lure spirit fans out of the city and into their character-packed corner of the world.

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It's not all hefty investment and facelifts (although there's a lot of that going on). Some distilleries exude great service, others boast exceptional food offerings – a drawcard in their own right. Add interesting beverages, special distillery-door only releases, purpose-built tasting spaces, cocktail bars, hands-on tours, and immersive botanical-packed gardens to the mix and you have an excuse to turn a distillery jaunt into a day trip or a weekend away.

Four Pillars' Rare Dry Gin.
Four Pillars' Rare Dry Gin.Supplied

VICTORIA

Four Pillars

There's excitement in the air at Yarra Valley's Four Pillars distillery and deservedly so. The doors to its new-look home, affectionately called Healesville 2.0, open on April 26. Believe the hype. It is gobsmacking.

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The buzz around the Yarra Valley brand's $7 million expansion and impressive new digs has been brewing since the project began 18 months ago. It makes Four Pillars the largest gin-focused distillery in Australia and the team expects to welcome 200,000 visitors a year.

There's a fair chance every one of them will be wowed.

The adventure begins on Lilydale Road, where a towering copper "veil" (made from 1650 metres of raw copper tubing) weaves its way across the entrance like a giant metallic snake. What looks like an art installation acts as a connection between the original building and the new. It also works as a natural heat exchanger to reduce energy consumption.

Founders Cameron Mackenzie, Stuart Gregor and Matt Jones have long been devoted to sustainable practices and engaged Melbourne's sustainability-led Breathe Architecture to design the space. Together, they have tripled the hospitality capacity to 300 people, incorporating multiple event and function areas, and a shop.

The unmistakable smell of botanicals hits as you make your way through the maze of rooms and tasting spaces. Wood, copper, concrete floors and exposed ceilings give the space an Aussie-meets-New York warehouse vibe. The copper bar is mesmerising. Gin is piped through to the bar and tonic is poured from kegs – all in a bid to reduce waste. Then there's the food.

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Four Pillars Gin's Beth's Bar
Four Pillars Gin's Beth's Bar Anson Smart

The snack menu at Beth's Bar was designed by Matt Wilkinson (Pope Joan, Vue de Monde, Circa) and incorporates Four Pillars' spent gin botanicals (the duck liver pâté with Bloody Shiraz Gin jelly is divine). Dishes are designed for sharing in the comfy booth seating or in Jude's Gin Garden, a bright, airy space where tables are surrounded by boxes planted with botanicals such as native ginger. A hole-in-the-wall Tuck Shop will serve specials at weekends and on public holidays. Between snacks, visitors can view the bottling line action from above.

But for all the snazzy design quirks, a humble undercurrent permeates the space. Four Pillars' copper stills – affectionately named Wilma, Jude, Coral and Beth – have pride of place in their original home. They'll be joined by a new arrival in late 2022.

One to try: Distiller Cameron Mackenzie spent 18 months working on the recipe for the Rare Dry Gin. It was the first release and is the heart and soul of Four Pillars.

2A Lilydale Road, Healesville, fourpillarsgin.com

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Reed & Co gin distillery in Bright, which has created a new restaurant in the space called Koji Bird.
Reed & Co gin distillery in Bright, which has created a new restaurant in the space called Koji Bird.Supplied

Reed & Co

When chefs Hamish Nugent and Rachel Reed launched Reed & Co Distillery in the alpine town of Bright in 2015, flavour was a priority. The couple closed hatted restaurant Tani Eat & Drink to focus on distilling, grabbing attention with a truly adventurous arsenal of beverages.

The distillery's exterior is clean and simple. "No 'look at us' signage or anything like that," Nugent says. But inside, Nugent and Reed are on a mission to push the boundaries of what's possible using koji, a fungus used in Japan to make everything from mirin and sake to miso and soy sauce.

Bright's Sixpence Coffee shares the distillery space and keeps visitors caffeinated throughout the day. By night, the distillery door's cocktail bar hits full swing. The izakaya-style food menu complements the beverages and is driven by Japanese flavours. Think pickled kingfish, koji fried chicken, quail roasted over fire and venison tataki .

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One to try: The citrus-driven Reed & Co Distillery NEO New World Dry Gin made with juniper, yuzu, sencha (green tea) and shiso.

15 Wills Street, Bright, reedandcodistillery.com

Animus

This distillery door, cocktail lounge and bar on happening Piper Street is within walking distance of Kyneton's boutique accommodation, restaurants and cafes. The cocktail lounge offers full views of the distillery action. For the ultra-curious, there's a two-to-three-hour gin blending masterclass led by Animus Distillery gin chief Luke Jacques. The owners (a group of four mates) are passionate about reducing their carbon footprint. Return your undamaged, empty 700ml Animus bottles to the distillery and receive $10 off your next bottle purchase. The bar stocks an impressive range of spirits from across the globe, and snacks include a grazing platter drawing on locally made charcuterie and cheese.

One to try: The Ambrosian Martini, a medley of Animus Ambrosian Gin, Lillet Rose Vermouth, and makrut lime leaf with a lime twist.

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Shop 1, 89A Piper Street, Kyneton, animusdistillery.com

SPECIAL MENTION: For pub-style grub done well, Nagambie Brewery and Distillery serves wood-fired pizza and chicken schnitzel alongside head distiller Jamie Chesher's creations. The best seats in the house are in the beer garden, right beside Lake Nagambie. Try the 3608 Distillery Classic Dry or let the bartender do the thinking for you. 295 High Street, Nagambie, nagambiebrewery.com.au

North of Eden's Gavin Hughes and Karen Touchie.
North of Eden's Gavin Hughes and Karen Touchie.Supplied

NEW SOUTH WALES

North of Eden

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Shaggy Highland cows, two friendly border collies, rolling green hills and a view out to Mumbulla Mountain – rural escapism doesn't get much better than this. A dirt driveway leads to the hilltop cellar door, where farmer Karen Touchie and her partner in life and business, Gavin Hughes, run one of Australia's smallest commercial distilleries, producing North of Eden gin.

The couple converted an old farm shed into Stony Creek Farm Distillery in 2018, adding a tasting space and deck using upcycled materials found on the farm. There's no kitcen but visitors are encouraged to bring a picnic. "We are not a big, bustling bar," says Touchie. "We are licensed for 30 people, so there's room to breathe."

Tastings run for 30 minutes (bookings essential) and the couple also runs a gin school, a three-hour hands-on experience that is popular with wannabe distillers.

One to try: The Admiral Navy Strength Gin won gold in the International Wine and Spirit Competition last month.

13594 Princes Highway, Stony Creek, northofeden.com.au

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Eddie Brook gathering native botanicals for Cape Byron gin.
Eddie Brook gathering native botanicals for Cape Byron gin. Supplied

Cape Byron

This New South Wales distillery crafts world-class gin using unique native botanicals. Eddie Brook and renowned master distiller Jim McEwan co-founded Cape Byron Distillery and Brookie's Byron Dry Gin in 2016. Eddie and his brother Will were raised on Brookfarm (now run by Will), a beautiful subtropical rainforest property their parents have been regenerating for more than three decades. Under the family's watchful eye, the region's native flora and fauna flourishes and many of the botanicals used in their gins are foraged from the rainforest.

Cape Byron distillery, in Byron Bay's hinterland, is surrounded by a subtropical rainforest.
Cape Byron distillery, in Byron Bay's hinterland, is surrounded by a subtropical rainforest. Sam Clarke

Cape Byron's creation process honours the traditional art of distillation, and the likes of the Mac. by Brookie's (a premium roasted macadamia and wattleseed liqueur) can be tasted at the distillery, which overlooks Byron Bay's hinterland. It's a spectacular spot best explored via a distillery and rainforest tour. The cellar door is located in the heart of the family property, so booking is essential.

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One to try: Cape Byron's inaugural whisky is set to land later this year. In the meantime, you can't go past the Brookie's Byron Dry Gin, which contains 25 botanicals, including 17 from the region.

80 St Helena Road, McLeods Shoot, capebyrondistillery.com

SPECIAL MENTION: Check out Black Gate Distillery at Mendooran (45 minutes from Dubbo in central west NSW). Brian and Genise Hollingworth established their brand in 2009, producing gorgeous single-malt whisky, dark rum and quandong liqueur. The Hollingworths run VIP tastings and tours, which need to be booked two weeks ahead. blackgatedistillery.com

78 Degrees Chocolate Gin.
78 Degrees Chocolate Gin.Supplied

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

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78 Degrees / Lot 100

The 35-minute drive to Hay Valley in the leafy Adelaide Hills is a mood-shifter. You can't help but breather deeper. There, on an 84-hectare rural property, is a collective of the food and beverage variety. Adelaide Hills Distillery, Ashton Valley Fresh, Hills Cider, Mismatch Brewing Company and Vinteloper Wines call the $4.5 million Lot 100 production facility and cellar door home. Adelaide Hills Distillery mastermind Sacha La Forgia pushes small-batch boundaries with native Australian grains. The cellar door buzzes with visitors in search of the good stuff, and there's an impressive restaurant where chef Shannon Fleming (ex-Orana) serves lunch made using produce sourced from their neighbours and nearby farmers. There's a beverage matching option, too. "Shannon often lets the drinks and the ingredients drive the menu," says La Forgia. "That's a rare thing."

One to try: The new limited-release 78 Degrees Chocolate Gin crafted from repurposed cacao husks in collaboration with ethical chocolate brand Loving Earth.

68 Chambers Road, Hay Valley, lot100.com.au

Never Never Distilling Co.

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Views of the McLaren Vale Ranges don't get much better than the voluptuous vantage at Chalk Hill Collective. The $1.6 million building (45 minutes from Adelaide) is home to Chalk Hill Wines' stylish tasting space, a wine bar, Never Never Distilling Co.'s distillery and gin bar, and Cucina di Strada, an Italian canteen run by the pizza gurus at nearby Pizzateca. The crew at Never Never run a premium gin masterclass that includes a tour of the production facility (often hosted by exuberant brand manager and co-founder Sean Baxter) and a take-home goodie bag. July is a great time to visit. That's when the Never Never Oyster Fest takes place. Visitors enjoy oysters, and Never Never saves the shells for use in the next Dark Series Oyster Shell Gin.

56 Field Street, McLaren Vale, neverneverdistilling.com.au

One to try: The Never Never Distilling Co. Ginache Gin made with grenache from Chalk Hill's Slate Creek vineyard.

A $3.5 million renovation has transformed Kangaroo Island Spirits from a tin shed to a distillery-focused visitor experience.
A $3.5 million renovation has transformed Kangaroo Island Spirits from a tin shed to a distillery-focused visitor experience. Meaghan Coles

Kangaroo Island Spirits

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Kangaroo Island is famous for its native Australian wildlife, sandy beaches and the laid-back attitude of locals. That's what the Kangaroo Island Spirits team hope to encapsulate at their cellar door, which started as a tin shed surrounded by farm land.

A $3.5 million renovation by SA-based Studio S2 Architects has resulted in a visitor space that lets people get up close and personal with the distilling process. The real drawcard, however, is the native botanical-packed Gin Garden. There, cocktails can be sipped and edible plants explored. "You can literally stand among the eucalypts and endemic plants," says general manager Kylie Bamfield. "People often come for a tasting and return the next day because there's still more garden to explore."

One to try: Kangaroo Island Spirits Wild Gin is a contemporary drop distilled with locally grown ingredients including boobialla, eau-du-cologne mint, lime zest and pink peppercorns.

856 Playford Highway, Cygnet River, Kangaroo Island, kangarooislandspirits.com.au

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TASMANIA

Waubs Harbour Distillery

Perched on the rocks at Tasmania's old fishing town, Bicheno, is this beautiful moody distillery. What was once an old oyster hatchery has been converted into a modern world-class whisky distillery, which opened in December 2021 and is due to release its first single malt in early 2023. Distillery tours are by appointment only. When you're done, take a stroll – the jagged coastline is dotted with great fish and chip joints and cafes.

One to try: The Apera Cask Strength from Waubs Harbour's Preview Series is sold out online (as are all the products), but are on tasting at the distillery – all the more reason to book a visit.

42 Esplanade, Bicheno, waubsharbourwhisky.com

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SPECIAL MENTION: Making the trek to Tassie? Make sure you also visit family-run McHenry Distillery – Australia's southern-most whisky distillery, located at Mount Arthur, on the Tasman Peninsula. Try the McHenry Butterfly Gin, coloured deep blue with butterfly pea flowers, a native botanical. Add tonic water and watch your drink turn pink. mchenrydistillery.com.au

WA

Esperance Distillery Co

Willing to drive eight hours for gin? This one's for you. That's how long it takes to get from Perth to Esperance, one of the most isolated towns on earth. The delightfully relaxed coastal town is home to white sandy beaches and this father/son duo's small but beautiful gin brand. What launched in December 2020 as the smallest distillery in Australia (operating with a 30-litre pot still) has grown just a little and creates magic using unique botanicals from its south-west surrounds. Opening hours vary depending on the season, so get in touch before you hit the road.

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One to try: Middle Island Pink was made using the Esperance wax botanical (picked from a local garden). Esperance Distillery is the only distillery in the world using this wax species.

77 Norseman Road, Esperance, esperancedistilleryco.com

SPECIAL MENTION: While in WA, make sure you also hit Hoochery Distillery, home to the oldest operating legal still in the state. It is located on a family farm in desert country – simply stunning. hoochery.com.au

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