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Does North Sydney have its dining mojo back?

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Glorietta owner Aaron Crinis.
Glorietta owner Aaron Crinis.Supplied

When Glorietta - a 220-seat restaurant and bar with a luxe Alexander and Co interior fires up its wood-fired oven later this week - it'll be on interesting turf.

North Sydney, once derided as the Kowloon of Sydney dining, is in the midst of a hospitality gold rush.

With North Sydney back in favour with advertising, tech and media companies, the northern metropolis is having its best food boom since 1980s shoulder pads ruled its streets.

The crew from The Grounds is in on the action, opening Lobby Boy and rumoured to be eyeing another site, while the home of the pig's ear katsu, Devon, has opened there, and even North Sydney stalwart Rengaya has lifted the game, shifting sites and reopening with a Giant Design interior.

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"There have been some false booms [for North Sydney] but the new buildings going up and the thousands of new tenants and residents has created a really good opportunity," Glorietta owner Aaron Crinis says.

Glorietta slides into the development at 100 Mount Street, at the same address Kingswood Coffee (where Australia's first World Cup Tasters Champion, Yama Kim, punches out the coffee) also recently took up residence.

"Betty's Burgers has opened and there's talk of a boutique wine store," Crinis says.

Glorietta has attracted some fire power in its kitchen, with head chef Katie Morris a graduate of Tetsuya's and Coogee Pavilion.

There will be protein and a big emphasis on vegetable dishes, with the wood-fired oven also producing pizzas Crinis describes as straddling Roman and Neapolitan in style.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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