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First look: Wilson and Market Brasserie at Prahran Market

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

The open kitchen at Wilson & Market at Prahran Market.
The open kitchen at Wilson & Market at Prahran Market.Andy Vukosav

Paul Wilson's many-part project at the Prahran Markets is finally almost complete. The cafe, Mr Wilson's Tuck Shop, opened two months ago. The bar is now serving a gin and vodka-focused selection of cocktails, oysters and pies, plus $35 carafes of wine. On Wednesday, June 21, the Brasserie will kick into gear.

Flavour-wise this is a step away from the Mexi-Latino stuff Wilson has been pushing in recent years. It's a non-denominational menu – modern-Australian Wilson is calling it – with a heavy emphasis on seafood, charred and fresh vegetables plus smoked and rotisserie meats.

There will be numerous oysters available from tiny Moonlight kisses to big angasis and seafood platters for $100 of crustaceans, sashimi and mussel ceviche. You can do a $160 fish-focused tasting menu at a row of seats at the kitchen bar.

Wilson is also bringing back a sort-of carvery so as you enter from Commercial Road, you'll see the likes of suckling pig haunches and whole ducks displayed at the kitchen window. Plenty of veg dishes make up the balance like roasted sprouts with dukka, brassica and brown rice salads and slow-cooked spiced cauliflower.

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As well as the main bar offering, the retail bottle shop part of the venue will allow those who book for dinner to drink-in bottles at retail price anything over $70, or pay $15 corkage for anything under.

The space is vast and all hard surfaces in jade, white and charcoal, so expect a rowdy vibe at capacity. An enclosed street-facing atrium will also open over summer. Wilson, the general manager and owner, will oversee the whole venue; the kitchen is run at night by executive chef Dave Marshall. To market, young pigs.

The Brasserie's first service will be Wednesday, June 21.

Cafe, Tuck Shop and Wine Store open Tue, Thu-Fri 9am-5pm; Sat 8am-6pm; Sun 9am-6pm.
Luxe Bar open Wed 5pm-10.30pm; Thu 5pm-11.30pm; Fri 5pm-12.30am; Sat noon-12.30am; Sun noon-11pm.

163 Commercial Road, Prahran, 03 9804 7530, wilsonandmarket.com.au

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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