First stage of Ace Hotel is set to open in Sydney

Sydney doesn't often get excited about new hotels, but Ace, the hip hotel group born in the US, kicks off its food and beverage offering this week and has the southern end of the city in a state of retro hipster alert.

It's the first stage of the rollout, the Mitch Orr-fronted Kiln restaurant and a rooftop bar are still on the way, but Sydneysiders get an entry-level look at the F&B, with a ground floor bar (drinks curated by Mike Bennie) and a casual 65-seat restaurant, LOAM.

LOAM gets its name and concept from the eatery in Ace's downtown LA hotel. Its colour palette differs from the original, drawing inspiration from the rust, ochre and greens of the Australian landscape. But it's still tied to a vegetable-heavy brief.

"About 60 per cent of the menu is plant-based," says Ace Sydney's executive chef, Heidi Flanagan.

She has just returned to Australia after a decade-plus run cooking around the world, and has added a couple of the LA favourites to the menu.

There's a luxed-up version of the LOAM mushroom burger that's "slightly more elevated" than the original. Avocado on toast will be served on an almond flatbread. Western Australian octopus with paprika is served with smoked eggplant and dried olives. Roast chook might even get a look in.

The casual 65-seater sits at the heart of the hotel, next to the lobby bar and a sunken lounge.

LOAM open: Daily breakfast (from 7am), lunch (11.30-2pm) and dinner (from 5.30pm).

47-53 Wentworth Avenue, Sydney, acehotel.com/sydney.