The $6 million revamp of The Oaks at Neutral Bay has seen the unveiling of another stage of the redevelopment, with the opening of garden conservatory Alala's.
Publican Andrew Thomas said earlier this year he ran focus groups with locals, with his favourite response being "the poor darling needs a little botox".
The rite-of-passage pub certainly feels like it has seen a cosmetic surgeon in the biggest redevelopment in its 133-year history.
The new restaurant includes a central cast-iron oven.
The menu stretches from French-style open sandwiches to scallops in the shell with finger lime and chicken and pistachio terrine.
The neighbouring bottleshop has its own takeaway food menu and an in-house "craft beer curator".
Continue this series
Our summer dining hit list: the best new places to eat and drink in SydneyStep aside smashed avo, there's a new kid in town. Breakfast congee.
Franca reshapes the classic French brasserie for a Potts Point crowd.
Don't miss the mozzarella in carrozza - a must-order, come-hither toasty.
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Sign up