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Goodbye, Vietnam, as Sydney's Forty Licks shuts its doors

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Forty Licks' interpretation of the Vietnamese pancake banh xeo.
Forty Licks' interpretation of the Vietnamese pancake banh xeo.Edwina Pickles

Forty Licks, the contemporary Vietnamese bar-restaurant that opened last May on York Street in the Sydney CBD, has fallen at a Saigon-like pace. A winding up order and appointment of a liquidator notice has popped up on the ASIC website for Mother Clucker Charcoal Chicken trading as Forty Licks.

It's bitter news for fans of Vietnam's lesser-known culinary gems. Its team had lived and worked in Vietnam and aimed high with the offer.

It was a magnet for the country's top reviewers, and while the service and noise levels copped an early pounding, there was an overwhelming sense this was a restaurant charting new turf.

Forty Licks' basement setting.
Forty Licks' basement setting.Edwina Pickles

Its expensive looking fitout, neatly tailored staff and Asian-inspired cocktails were a prelude to some of Vietnam's little-travelled dishes. Hopefully it will rise again, in one form or the other.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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