What is chervil and how do you use it?

​What is ​​chervil and where do you get it? L. Baum

"Where do you get it?" That was a Tuckerbag-inspired, acid-trip-like flashback. Chervil is grouse, bonza and ace. Tres bien. One of the fines herbes of French haute cuisine (alongside chives, parsley and tarragon), chervil is the effete cousin of parsley and fennel, all being members of the Apiaceae family. Its name comes from the Greek "leaves of joy". It is a delicate little plant that does look like parsley but with finer, fernlike leaves. It loves loads of water when planted in well-drained soil and hates the heat. It is hard to grow commercially and the chervil that is available in the market place is generally grown hydroponically in greenhouses. Soil-grown chervil is packed full of a lean, anise-like aroma, like a long, single high note played on the violin. The essential oils are delicate and do not survive long-cooking so it is generally used as a garnish. Back in the late 1990s, chef Shannon Bennett showed me how he made one of his signature sauces. Finely chopped shallots, a little tomato ketchup, sherry vinegar, olive oil and finely chopped chervil were among its ingredients. He chopped the chervil with a sharp knife as it tears and bruises easily under a blunt blade. It is superb in heavy salads that require a high note and is perfect in many fish and chicken dishes. I buy pots from the nursery from spring to summer and have a few on the go in a big pot by the back door all season. Also try farmers' markets and good greengrocers.

What is a good herbal tea? P. Golding

According to a mate of mine, lemon verbena is the best. He once had an inner-suburban cafe and planted the back garden out with the stuff. He picked the leaves and put four leaves in a tea pot with boiling water, for which he charged $4.50. Over five years he reckons he made about $40,000 out of those poor bushes. They are easy to grow, hardy and make a really refreshing brew.

Can I make preserved cherries? L. Charney

It is easy. They are delicious and nothing like those vile little red marbles sold in the supermarket under the same name. The sweet cherry season is almost at an end but the sour cherries are still about. Here's a recipe from my good mate and co-author Phillippa Grogan. Take 500g fresh cherries (sweet or sour, stalk on), and place in a saucepan with 500g castor sugar and one tablespoon water. Simmer over low heat for an hour, stirring occasionally. The cherries should be wrinkled and sitting in a syrup. Strain the cherries, retaining the syrup, place in a large jar and return the syrup to the saucepan and reduce by half. Pour the syrup over, seal the jar and place in the fridge. They will keep for six months. Use in desserts and for topping old-fashioned fairy cakes.

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