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Jessi Singh bringing 'Australian-Indian' to 4Fourteen

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Chef Jessi Singh is to open in the old 4Fourteen site in Surry Hills.
Chef Jessi Singh is to open in the old 4Fourteen site in Surry Hills.Supplied

Good news for fans of Colin Fassnidge's 4Fourteen and its quirky Surry Hills location.

4Fourteen has extended its run to August 25, and the site has an incoming operator.

Jessi Singh, who opened a string of Victorian restaurants, including Dhaba at the Mill and Horn Please, extended his reach to New York City's East Village in 2014, opening Babu Ji NYC.

In early October he'll open Don't Tell Aunty in the 4Fourteen site, turning out what he calls his own brand of "Australian-Indian".

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The chef says his Italian-American wife has also provided plenty of inspiration.

"I make a pizza in the tandoor, which is like a garlic naan with cheese," he says.

The Sydney menu will include a sea urchin biryani and a cauliflower dish inspired by the cooking of Kolkata's Chinese community. The food sounds interesting, as does its creator, who likes to skip ghee and oil in his cooking in search of cleaner dishes.

"We always wanted to come here [Sydney] and looked at a space next to Longrain just before we moved to New York. And we always wanted to come home, we wanted our kids to grow up here,'' he says.

Singh says he'll continue to run their New York restaurant and a wine bar, shop and restaurant in Santa Barbara they are partners in from their Australian base.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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