Just Open: Bluebonnet Barbecue, Fitzroy North

Vegan-friendly barbecue? Yes, we've seen the memes on Facebook (heck, we've even scoffed at and shared them), but what Bluebonnet Barbecue founder Chris Terlikar is cooking at his new digs (officially opening Wednesday at the former North Fitzroy Star) is no laughing matter.

"It has the same texture as pulled pork," Terlikar says of the jackfruit he smokes over oak and ironbark for four hours.

But carnivores need not fret. Loretta (Bluebonnet's original smoker) has risen from the ashes (the former premises in Collingwood was destroyed by fire in May last year) and is busy cooking up Ranger's Valley black onyx brisket, Berkshire pork and crispy lamb ribs.

Smaller plates are perfect for lone diners and those not fond of sharing (a few of the sides are vegan, too, such as a mayo-free apple and kohlrabi slaw or miso-glazed brussels sprouts).

As for the fitout, "it's reclaimed everything", Terlikar says, right through to the stripped-back table tops and the light fixtures made from the casters that once supported them. The addition of taxidermy art from Talons of Death gives an authentic dive-bar/barbecue-joint feel.

The front bar, named Loretta's, is expected to launch in late May as an homage to craft beer and whiskey with 10 of the former on tap (think Feral Hop Hog, Mornington Peninsula Brewery, Stone & Wood) and about 120 varieties of the latter. Fronted by Oscar Eastman (ex-Eau de Vie), they'll shake a mean cocktail: an Old Fashioned Otter, with Buffalo Trace bourbon, house-spiced gomme and bitters over block ice is certain to set the mood.

Open Mon-Thu 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sun noon-3pm, 5pm-10pm.

32 St Georges Road South, Fitzroy North, 03 9972 1815, bluebonnetbbq.com.au