Just Open: Bovine & Swine Barbecue Company, Enmore

Get in early at Bovine & Swine or risk a shortage of meat.
Get in early at Bovine & Swine or risk a shortage of meat. Photo: Edwina Pickles

There are two rules at Bovine & Swine Barbecue Company, which has just opened a few doors along from the Enmore Theatre: don't mention pulled pork, and spell "barbecue" the correct way.

Bovine & Swine is the long-awaited venue from Wes Griffiths and Anton Hughes, both former pit masters at Vic's Meat Market, and Tim Chillingworth, owner of Newtown's 1950s' clothing store Faster Pussycat. Their cult following in Sydney's barbecue community saw the trio sell out of pork and brisket from their custom-built smoker by 9pm on opening night.

Keeping it in the family at new barbecue joint Bovine & Swine: Tim Chillingworth, Wes Griffiths, Wes's son David,16, ...
Keeping it in the family at new barbecue joint Bovine & Swine: Tim Chillingworth, Wes Griffiths, Wes's son David,16, Anton Hughes and his son Frankie, 7. Photo: Edwina Pickles

Griffiths is pedantic about the spelling of barbecue with a "c", which is understandable given he has it tattooed across his fingers. "They use a bastardised 'q' in some places, but in Texas they use a 'c'," he says. "I got the tattoo in Austin, and Texas barbecue is what we're all about."

The barbecue fanatic is also no fan of pulled pork, which he describes as "sloppy".

"We're finding everyone is a little over pulled pork," Hughes chimes. "We decided to do a Carolina-style chopped pork. Instead of cooking the pork shoulder in its own juices until it breaks down and starts to stew, we pull it out at a point it is still sliceable."

All beers are in cans, including Young Henry's, which Hughes says "couldn't not be served on Enmore Road".

There is also a selection of American brews, including Pabst Blue Ribbon and Rio Bravo.

"We've got a beer from Nashville called 'TailGate', which is so barbecue it's not funny," he says.

92 Enmore Road, Enmore, Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight (or until sold out)