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Just Open: Devon on Danks, Waterloo

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Devon on Danks' lobster roll promises to be a summer favourite.
Devon on Danks' lobster roll promises to be a summer favourite.Supplied

The crew behind Devon Cafe in Surry Hills has opened a store at the Waterloo site that was once Danks Street Diner (and before that Danks Street Depot).

Devon was named best cafe for food in The Sydney Morning Herald Good Cafe Guide 2014. The Devon on Danks cafe seats 100 people and will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner

"The shop in Surry Hills was just too packed on the weekends," says Devon owner Derek Puah. "We wanted a bigger space and the Danks Street Diner site was up for lease."

Devon has teamed up with pastry chef Markus Andrew, who has worked closely with Adriano Zumbo and as a patisserie teacher at Le Cordon Bleu, Australia.

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There are doughnuts, cronuts, a soft-serve bar and fresh cheesecakes. Doughnuts are $6.50 each and include flavours such as espresso with panela sugar, red bean with matcha (green tea) powder and Milo.

Devon's head chef Zach Tan is helming the Waterloo kitchen. The non-dessert section of the menu features favourites from the Surry Hills store plus a few exclusive items.

Making the trip south is Tan's popular Breakfast With The Sakumas ($24.50) – grilled king salmon with a smoked eel croquette, 63-degree egg, radish salad and Kewpie mayo. And for lobster roll lovers, the answer is yes: Tan's lobster roll ($15) will feature on the Waterloo dinner menu.

An exclusive item on the Danks menu is Lucky Duck ($23), a canard-crazy dish involving a French buckwheat crepe, crisp duck leg, duck liver parfait, a fried duck egg and blueberry preserve.

Devon on Danks uses Industry Beans from Melbourne for its coffee (the Surry Hills cafe uses Coffee Alchemy beans). Puah says the Waterloo store will be the second location in Sydney to use the beans. Industry Beans was named best boutique roaster in The Age Good Cafe Guide 2014.

2 Danks Street, Waterloo, 9698 7765, devoncafe.com.au

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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