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Just Open: Mason Dixon American sandwich bar, Melbourne CBD

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Messy: North Carolina-style pulled pork roll.
Messy: North Carolina-style pulled pork roll.Emma Morgan

Melburnians, throw both your sandwich-loving hands in the air for Mason Dixon: the new American sandwich outlet serving the city's most true-to-form Miami-style Cubanos and North Carolina pulled pork rolls.

Owner Garrett Huston is Boston-born and Georgia-raised, and he's got a good handle on the sandwiches that hail from both north and south of the namesake Mason-Dixon line.

All the meats on offer here, from the ruffles of pastrami and turkey, to the corned beef Huston uses for his light, crisp Reubens, are free-range and smoked or cooked to spec for him by Yarra Glen Quality Meats. Instead of dialling the flavours and sauces up to 11, Huston holds tight and it makes for good sandwich.

Mason Dixon's Miami-style Cubano sandwich.
Mason Dixon's Miami-style Cubano sandwich.Emma Morgan
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The key to his North Carolina-style pulled pork roll is the spicy apple cider vinegar "sauce" (it's more a liquor), which cuts through the fattiness of the meat. Huston makes his own and he'll give you an extra thimbleful to administer to your sandwich as you eat. Combined with a handful of mayo-slicked slaw and the 12-hour cooked pork, it's a two-hands, three-napkin job and you'll still end up needing to wash your sleeves. The current brioche buns, grilled to order, are a little big but that's something he's looking into.

As for the Cuban sandwich, it's a properly subtle balance of ham, shredded pork, Swiss cheese, mustard and sliced pickles in a bun that delivers the perfect butter-brushed crunch immortalised last year in the sandwich food porn film, Chef. And it will only set you back $9.50 with a handful of pretzels, a pickle spear and a Mentos on the side.

Word on the street is they'll be serving cinnamon scrolls from next week for breakfast. Get in while the getting is good.

Oaks on Collins food plaza, 7/480 Collins Street, Melbourne, 8610 6316, masondixon.net.au. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-3pm.

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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