Just Open: ORee Korean duck restaurant, Melbourne CBD

ORee does duck: Korean duck. Unlike a lot of other Korean restaurants in Melbourne, it goes against the tide of spiralling out, fusing with Mexican or Aussie tastes, and drills down to specialise – in dark, flavoursome duck. "In Korea, duck meat is known as healthy food," says Lemy Kim, ORee's owner. "Korean-style duck is hard to get in Australia."

The bain-marie and numbered picture menu in the front section of the restaurant serve limited-time lunchers with things like bibimbap – the edible colour wheel – topped with smoked duck pieces.

At night, the coals light up in the in-table barbecues, and the deboned ducks start hitting the grill. They come half, whole, roasted and marinated – in chilli or soy. There's a parade of side dishes (banchan), like pickled radish and kimchi, and sauces like gochujang or citrus and soy.

After 9pm, the Drunken Duck menu serves the kinds of non-duck dishes you seek after a few sojus. Hic, hic hooray for tteokbokki, army stew and fried chicken.

Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 3pm, and daily from 5pm to 11pm.

ORee, Shop 1, 179 Queen Street, Melbourne, 9642 1270, oree.com.au