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Just Open: Reuben Republic, Marrickville

Loren Smith

Much more than a mouthful: The "massive Reuben".
Much more than a mouthful: The "massive Reuben".Supplied

Sandwich kings Reuben Republic have moved on from their modest market beginnings, with a permanent site opening in the burgeoning foodie suburb of Marrickville.

The shop will be serving up its deli-style carnivorous goods from Friday night.

True to their namesake, the sandwiches are mostly about the meat: thrice-cooked brisket. First it's cured in brine for up to 14 days, then smoked for six to 10 hours, then steamed. The end product? Tender, flaked, smoky pastrami.

The new shop's glossy interiors.
The new shop's glossy interiors. Supplied
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Try it in the signature Reuben, with all the regular trimmings (sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing) for about $10.

If your appetite is on the heftier side, the "massive Reuben" (about $16) featuring an epic four layers of pastrami will surely satisfy you.

This is just one item on their "not so secret menu". The others are more hush-hush, "to give people something to talk about and reward regulars", says owner John Bogiatzis.

Herbivores won't be left hungry, either. The cheekily named "eggslut" is a warm brioche sandwiching free-range coddled eggs, cheddar cheese, caramelised onion and Russian dressing (about $10).

Themed sides such as slaw, potatoes and pickles ($3-6 each) make for a more substantial pit stop.

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After a Reuben-induced spiritual awakening at a New York deli, Bogiatzis knew he had to transport the concept of tender, smoked meat to his home country.

His new bricks-and-mortar venture cements our ongoing infatuation with the mother of all meat sandwiches.

"It was something we always wanted," Bogiatzis says. "The markets were purely a way for us to develop a bit of experience ... 12 months on, we are all guns 'a blazing."

What can we say? We're pickled pink about it.

Reuben Republic, 266 Marrickville Road, Marrickville. Opening night, Friday July 10, RSVP at reubenrepublic.com.au. Regular opening hours will then be 8.00am-3.30pm, 7 days (subject to change).

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