Kuon Omakase owners opening two new bijou restaurants at Darling Square

Pint-sized Japanese restaurants have been popping up across Sydney faster than new parking meters. Now the burgeoning dining precinct around Wynyard Station is set to join the omakase party.

Fresh from scoring 15.5/20 for its Kuon Omakase at Darling Square from Good Food reviewer Callan Boys, the rapidly expanding group of pint-sized Sydney restaurants is adding another, on Wynyard Lane, near the Shell House entrance and around the corner from Turkish new arrival Maydanoz.

"It's two levels," says Kuon co-owner Kenny Lee. "There'll be a 12-seat omakase in the basement and a wine and sake bar with Japanese whisky."

The yet-to-be-named restaurant will open next March.

Lee says local staffing problems have slowed expansion of his successful fleet of tiny omakase restaurants, forcing him to recruit from Japan. A new chef arrives in Australia in early September.

The success of Kuon Omakase, which is booked out months in advance, has Lee and his team chasing more seats – so in recent weeks he's moved the restaurant across the lane to the site of his former tempura restaurant.

"It's bigger and can accommodate up to 12 guests per session," he explains.

The original Kuon site will become KAPPO by Kuon, focused on sushi.

With Sydney experiencing an unexpected splurge in high-end post-lockdown dining, Lee has brought forward plans on yet another Darling Square omakase. The 10-seat Irori Kuon, which will specialise in food from the grill.

It will open in the first week of October.