March hot seats: The tables to book in Sydney and Melbourne this month
The hottest seats (and plates) in Sydney and Melbourne, right now.
Peppe's Osteria, Sydney
If you didn't know it was vegan, you wouldn't know it was vegan. Grace Watson and Joe Pagliaro of Peppe's Gnocchi – the one with the queues on Bondi Road – have now opened Peppe's Osteria in the former Paperbark in Waterloo. Same deal: excellent gnocchi , spaghetti and even lasagne that sing with flavour and freshness, in a leafy, romantic dining space.
Chef Joel Bennetts builds up aroma with masses of herbs, dried mushrooms and vegetables, and the natural wines – cofermented, unfiltered – are fun and funky. – Terry Durack
Saint Peter, Sydney
"A unique approach to the whole fish" is now promised on Friday evenings at Sydney's Saint Peter, already noted for its uncompromisingly sustainable fish cookery.
For the first time, chef Josh Niland is offering an eight-course tasting menu ($155 a head) that takes diners from fresh to cured to dry-aged to ingeniously repurposed. That could mean crisp-skinned Peking coral trout with a pancake and house-made oyster sauce;fish consomme; and trout sang choy bao. Even the caramel slice dessert is made from fish fat. – Jill Dupleix
RaRa Ramen, Sydney
As at the original RaRa in Redfern, noodle fans can expect to wait up to half an hour for a seat at Randwick's slickest spot for shio, seasoned eggs and semillon. (Hot tip: put your name on the list and grab a negroni at the new Baccomatto Osteria next door.)
Time spent waiting is rewarded with the big house-made noodle energy of tonkotsu capped with free-range grilled pork, and a restorative chicken ramen with grilled corn and confit maryland. Gyoza and bao cap off the menu so no one leaves RaRa still hungry. – Callan Boys
Lekker!, Melbourne
Quick Dutch lesson: lekker means yummy; kaas is cheese; bitterballen are crumbed meatballs; and borrel equals "happy hour". Visit this temporary restaurant and put your newfound Dutch to use ordering tasty bar snacks and captivating wines.
Dutch chef Rob Kabboord, previously of Westgarth's Merricote but more recently seen buffing his fine-dining skills at Sydney's Quay, will be here until at least the end of May, with lunch and all-day snacks on Fridays and a super goed $85-a-head dinner set menu Wednesday to Saturday. – Roslyn Grundy
Bread Club and Falco, Melbourne
Haute bakeries are hot in Melbourne right now. North Melbourne's new Bread Club is a mint-and-marble wonder by French expats Tim Beylie and Brice Antier, who met at Vue de Monde. Beyond baguettes they're making pies with fillings like fesenjoon (a Persian chicken stew), and strawberry croissants. Beylie, also a DJ, plans to hold Sunday sessions where friends will gig while they serve Bloody Marys and bechamel pastries to dusty souls.
And from the former Rockwell and Sons operators with head baker Christine Tran, Collingwood's Falco is shattering resolve with miso and peanut butter cookies, porridge loaves and Rockwell's famous double patty smash burger, now in pie form. – Gemima Cody
breadclub.com.au; falcobakery.com
Tan Viet, Sydney
Followers of the Cabramatta noodle house's crisp-skinned chicken will be very pleased to know there's now a Darling Square version of the Vietnamese favourite, and it's just as good. There's lots on offer, including "deluxe pork chop", which sees a flattened, seasoned and fried pork chop served alongside broken rice, a fried egg and salad.
But, really, you're here for one thing – that chicken, with its glassy, burnished skin, tender thigh and leg meat served with egg noodles. Take those noodles with or without soup, and add a side of the very good spring rolls. – Myffy Rigby
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