Matt Wilkinson to take over Hellenic Republic in Brunswick East

The Made Establishment, the hospitality umbrella group fronted by George Calombaris which encompasses restaurants Jimmy Grants, Gazi, Elektra Dining Room (formerly the Press Club) and four branches of Hellenic Republic, is making major changes.

Calombaris, the creative force behind the brands, is now focusing on running Hellenic Brighton, while the properties housing Hellenic Hotel in Williamstown, Hellenic Kew and the original Brunswick restaurant are all being reinvented, with new creatives at the helm.

Hellenic Hotel has already had a minor facelift and reopened as Hotel Argentina, reflecting the heritage of its longtime chef Dan Szwarc. Likewise the Kew property will soon reflect its head chef's Sicilian roots when it becomes Vito. In a surprise move, Matt Wilkinson, the green-thumbed, Brit chef behind Pope Joan, has been handed the keys to Brunswick East. It is a new partnership for the Made group. He will turn it into a modern inn, Crofter Dining Room and Bar, in early January.

The takeover has been in discussion for some time. Crofter will realise a dream Wilkinson has had for far longer. In 2011, he had planned to open a restaurant, Hen and Coq, but it never came to pass. He says Pope Joan has defined him since, and because it works, he hasn't wanted to change it. Crofter will let him do the veg-focused, Brit-leaning menu that's been in his head for years.

"Because of my accent, I've never felt that Australian, so I thought bugger it, I'll be a Brit again," says Wilkinson, who is gearing up with a 120-year-old copy of Mrs Beeton's Cookery Book.

A front bar will be installed, serving "good, fun booze" with a focus on sherry and Four Pillars Gin. The vegetable-led menu will be seasonal, slightly British and promote snacking. It may feature bone marrow madeleines with anchovy sauce (still in testing), bubble and squeak utilising vegetable offcuts, roti and breads with his mustard-y butter dips, then serious plated salads and vegetable dishes with meat options like retired dairy cow koftas and great ham offered as sides.

"It's the way I eat now," says Wilkinson, who will be going ultimately British on desserts, offering a "summer pudding Eton mess pav roll" and wedges of cheese served with hot carrot cake.

Crofter will open at 434 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, in mid-January. Hellenic Republic's final service will be on December 31. Bookings hellenicrepublic.com.au.