Sydney eateries need to stop closing when the sun goes down

COMMENT

Two thumbs up for Sydney's new Darling Square precinct. The Lendlease-developed site launched 29 eateries in August and the space once home to the Entertainment Centre is now a beaut spot for eating banh mi under a tree. There's a library, lots of grass and every type of fried chicken a University of Technology student could want.

If more eateries were open after 9pm on a weeknight it might be perfect.

Sydney is in vital need of a food hub where every second restaurant isn't stacking chairs at a time when most European cities are starting to come alive. Somewhere to head with a large group after an evening excursion to the movies, say, or a place shift-working solo diners can take comfort in ramen.

Kudos to Darling Square restaurants such as Hello Auntie and XOPP for trading until a user-friendly hour - their more casual neighbours just need to follow suit. If there was a push for all eateries to band together and stay open later, the area can only take off due to repeat business and positive word-of-mouth.

With the International Convention Centre on its doorstep, the precinct already has a captive audience most nights of the week, too. I'd wager most hungry people leaving a concert or conference would be more keen for Sri Lankan hoppers, natural wine and great fried chicken, than a falafel plate at Harbourside food court.

Sydney is in vital need of a food hub where every second restaurant isn't stacking chairs at a time when most European cities are starting to come alive.

To be fair to Darling Square, Sydney has never been known for its late-night dining scene. Melbourne leaves us for dead in that respect and always has.

This isn't a result of lockout laws or food delivery services. It's due to a longstanding quagmire whereby restaurant operators are unwilling to trade later because there's not enough customers to warrant extra staff costs. Meanwhile, Sydneysiders are hesitant to seek out dinner anytime after A Current Affair because they suppose most kitchens will be taking last orders. The impasse is real.

"Concerned citizen" groups have also been powerful in suppressing Sydney's night-time economy by protesting against the faintest hint of a licensing relaxation here or new wine bar there. It would be fantastic to see more councils shut these Dad's Army-esqe home guards down and act on behalf of citizens who want to see Sydney thrive, rather than satisfying minorities with very loud voices.

I do think change is in the air, though. With lockout laws soon to be relaxed, and the CBD light rail gearing up, the potential of a world-class Sydney nightlife hasn't looked this promising since the Olympics.

State and local governments seem genuinely keen to give the night-time economy a leg up in 2020. Alberto's Lounge has just been approved to trade until 1am in Surry Hills, for example, which would have been unthinkable only 12 months ago. Here's hoping more venues jump on board the night train and Sydney diners support them. Everyone deserves good noodles after 9pm.

Callan Boys is the national writer for Good Food.

• Read more: Auvers cafe opens at Darling Square and Jill Dupleix's review of Saga Lyte