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Mirazur, former world's best restaurant winner, announces Sydney residency at The Gantry

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Chef Mauro Colagreco gathering fennel for the Mirazur menu.
Chef Mauro Colagreco gathering fennel for the Mirazur menu.Matteo Carassale

A former "best restaurant in the world" winner is coming to Sydney. Mirazur, which holds three Michelin stars, will take over The Gantry at Walsh Bay's Pier One hotel for three weeks from March 10.

"We're not travelling to Australia just to be seen and cook some dishes, though," Mirazur founder Mauro Colagreco tells Good Food from Menton in France, where his seaside restaurant backs on to the Italian border.

"We want guests to experience Mirazur's approach to gastronomy, but we also want to learn from people and local produce. We want to bring new ideas back home."

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In 2019, Mirazur was voted the number one restaurant in the world by The World's 50 Best Restaurants panel. (Copenhagen's much-hyped Noma, which had a 10-week pop-up in Sydney in 2016, was runner-up that year.)

Colagreco serves a tasting menu "rhythmed by the variations of the biodynamic calendar" for €380 ($A585) a head. Recent courses have included a striking dish of celtuce, stracciatella and caviar, and borage flowers with razor clams and chawanmushi custard.

A seat at the Sydney residency will be $685 a head. The wine pairing will start at $210.

Restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France.
Restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France.Anthony Lanneretonne

The extended pop-up is part of Mirazur's Beyond Borders project, created to enrich the restaurant's collective "knowledge, philosophy and commitment" through experiencing new cultures and ingredients.

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Executive chef Luca Mattioli and "garden scientist" Silvina Dayer will arrive in Australia next week to begin researching local produce.

"We want to find producers that take good care of their soil, because when you look after the soil, the nutrients make the flavour of the fruit and vegetables so much better," says Colagreco.

Harbourside restaurant The Gantry will become Mirazur's home away from home in March.
Harbourside restaurant The Gantry will become Mirazur's home away from home in March.Jennifer Soo

The rest of the Mirazur team, including sommeliers and a large contingent of front-of-house and kitchen staff, will land in March. It will be Colagreco's seventh visit to Australia.

"I'm very curious about using green ants, local crab and marron," he says. "It's always exciting to cook with new products. As a chef, it's like being a teenager again."

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Colagreco says he hasn't locked in any dishes for Sydney yet and the menu will change weekly. It's likely kangaroo will make an appearance – perhaps replacing venison in a tartare with foie gras and mulberries – but it depends on the quality of produce.

The Mirazur team is coming to Sydney for a three-week pop-up.
The Mirazur team is coming to Sydney for a three-week pop-up.Supplied

The Mirazur team will also work closely with hatted Gantry chef Rhys Connell. Pier One general manager Kim Mahaffy says the hotel's water-facing dining room is ideal for showcasing Colagreco's cooking in Australia.

"Our stunning location on Sydney Harbour is a perfect gateway to Australia, and The Gantry's strong connection with local produce and suppliers will help bring a taste of Mirazur to Sydney."

Last week, Michelin three-star restaurant L'Enclume, based in England's Lake District, announced it would take over Bathers Pavilion in Mosman for five weeks from July 19.

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Mirazur Sydney will open for lunch and dinner Wednesday to Sunday, from March 10-31. Bookings will open 10am AEST on February 13, at chefworldtour.com/mirazursydney

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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