Pay-what-you-feel restaurant Lentil As Anything to permanently close after 21 years

All three Melbourne locations of Lentil As Anything, the pay-what-you-feel restaurant that opened in 2000, will permanently close their doors on February 27.

Founder Shanaka Fernando cited a downturn in trade, loss of volunteers and repayment of debts as the reasons for the decision.

The onset of the pandemic and the closure of Australia's international borders decimated both the Lentil As Anything customer base and its 5000-strong volunteer workforce that supplemented a small paid team in operating the restaurants. The business estimates that backpackers made up 70 per cent of its diners and volunteers.

"We have tried to hang on as long as we could but it is now untenable," Fernando said in a statement. He declined to be interviewed for this story.

Opening in St Kilda 21 years ago, Lentil as Anything offered a fully vegetarian (later vegan) menu, with people able to pay whatever they could afford. The business model was designed to help those in need, such as the homeless, while providing a place for social connection.

But it was also popular with backpackers, students and others who enjoyed the lively atmosphere and simple food that suited any budget. Over two decades, it estimates it served 20 million meals.

However, it wasn't a model without its problems. Allegations published by The Age in May 2021 outlined issues with finances and mismanagement. Lentil As Anything published a response on its website stating "there is no basis for these claims".

Since COVID hit, several crowdfunding campaigns were launched to make up for the loss of income, including one last August to pay rental arrears on a Thornbury location the business was evicted from, along with staff wages, suppliers and statutory debts. In total, more than $430,000 was raised from these campaigns.

But it wasn't enough. The business says that pre-COVID it took an average of $93,000 per week in donations. This dropped to $5,000 during lockdowns. While the business received JobKeeper, it claims it did not receive any other government financial support.

"We still provided about 100,000 free meals during the lockdowns but we are now in a position where our income is not meeting the cost of our outgoings," Fernando said.

In recent months, the business relocated from Thornbury to a new location in Brunswick after a landlord dispute and was also forced to close its Sydney location, open since 2014.

A spokesperson for the business said that while diners are returning to Lentil As Anything, income is down to six per cent of what it was, with many diners unable to afford to donate anything for their meals.

Despite its financial struggles, the organisation has stated as recently as November that it had plans to open in Brisbane.

What's next for Fernando is unclear, but another shot at Lentil As Anything is unlikely. "I've had my run. I will be spending more time with my children and living life."

Lentil As Anything will trade until February 27 at Abbotsford, St Kilda and Brunswick. lentilasanything.com