Pierre Khodja's Camus brings Algerian flavours to Northcote

It's early days but a dish of slow-cooked goat with caramelised onion and apricots is already proving a favourite at Camus, which opened in Northcote in mid-January.

Unlike pork and beef, goat is a meat that people of most religions can enjoy, says Pierre Khodja, who, like the writer and philosopher Albert Camus for whom the restaurant is named, was born in Algeria.

His menu reflects both Khodja's heritage and his training, with sharing dishes such as baharat-rubbed whole dory and chicken with preserved lemon and olives, which combine North African spicing and French technique, which earned him a Good Food Guide hat four years running at the Flinders Hotel's Terminus restaurant.

But Khodja says people are also swinging by before the cinema for a snack (it's hard to beat duck croquettes with date puree and lime) and a glass of something aromatic from the short, natural-leaning wine list, which includes bottles from Morocco, Spain and Australia.

The single shopfront, on the strip that also houses Merricote and Barry, has been given a stylish makeover featuring red brick walls, pendant lights, and a gleaming open kitchen at the rear.

It seats 44 downstairs and 38 upstairs. Next up: a bijou courtyard seating up to 20.

"It's been a hard, hard journey," says Khodja, who has been working on the project for 5½ years. "But you have to believe in yourself."

Open Fri-Sun noon-3pm, Wed-Sun 6.30pm-late.

61 High Street, Northcote, 03 9486 3063, camusrestaurant.com.au