Redfern's new Vietery serves fun food that's good for the soul

Kinhboy is big on fun. So much so, the new Redfern restaurant has giant neon signs to remind diners they're in for a good time.

It's not just the phrase "pho king amazing" that glows pink at the entrance either – though that is much photographed. Midway through its long dining room you'll also spot an OK sign that frames the following words on the wall: Mot hai ba yo!

The phrase roughly translates to "One, two, three, cheers!" in Vietnamese, and is a popular call-to-arms for synchronised drinking at parties.

Buoyed by the thought, my friend and I embark on happy hour with a soju pineapple fizz and a glass of bone-dry rosé for a tenner each. It's a happy turn for our wallets and an excuse to get stuck into the restaurant's drinks-friendly, inventive menu.

Opened in September 2020, this modern "Vietery" is flanked by local heroes such as Rara Ramen and Breadfern on Regent Street. The team behind Kinhboy also runs Surry Hills' Tokki and upmarket mod-Asian joint Khoi in Barangaroo.

A cheeky, unorthodox approach runs through all three venues. At Kinhboy, executive chef Peter Wu (ex Sunset Sabi and Phomo) brings his vision of fun Vietnamese food to life by pinpointing his favourite elements of old-school dishes and adding his own spin.

A taco, for instance, seems like an odd thing to have on a Vietnamese menu. But a closer look reveals it's a thoughtful, single-portion take on banh xeo.

"Banh xeos are essentially massive crepes. For the longest time, people would have a hard time eating it and enjoying it the way it's supposed to be," says Wu. "But with Sydney's love of Mexican food, I thought we can turn it into a smaller taco, pick it up, put the whole thing in your hands."

You can guess, perhaps, that this taco has loyal fans on social media. But it's not just another cute Franken-dish with vaguely Asian roots. Wu actually grew up around his mother's Vietnamese restaurants and consulted her for input.

"I'm that typical teenager sitting at the front of a Vietnamese restaurant doing his homework, while running food to the customers and taking orders", he says. Wu made his mum the prototype and got the nod.

Today, the crisp, sunshiny "taco" shells are a result of combining two batters: a traditional banh xeo and super-thin Vietnamese prawn cracker for crunch.

It holds court with a tangy Viet slaw, a tonne of fresh herbs and Wu's "smack mayo" (nuoc cham blended with chilli sambal, minced garlic, lime juice and whole egg mayo). Choose between crackling pork or tiger prawns for an extra protein hit.

Another snack that crosses cultural boarders is the mud crab dumplings. The translucent parcels come with a trio of crab, scallop and prawn meat that could've been a yum cha dish.

What ups the ante is the laksa broth it's served with. The house-made, lemongrass-heavy sauce draws on a Vietnamese laksa that has the velvety texture of a seafood bisque. It's too rich for my friend's liking, but I am there for the boujee spin.

Speaking of fancy, meat lovers will be thrilled by the beef short rib pho. A Jurassic rib – roasted for four hours on the bone – is served on a dark, collagen-rich broth that's a love child of pho and ramen.

"I really love American barbecue and I love barbecue brisket and smoked short ribs. So I thought, OK, how do I make [my pho] a little bit more exciting and more memorable?" The soup itself is slow-cooked for 18 hours, and finished with a layer of rendered wagyu fat that acts like a tare (or a fatty sauce base) in a ramen.

Vegos might opt for Wu's tofu fried rice with pickled mustard greens and mustard seeds. A dish that sounds simple, but is unusually satisfying. The secret?

"That came about when I woke up at home one morning and I was hungover, and it was just some of the ingredients in my fridge."

Yep, these are good-time dishes. Mot hai ba yo, indeed.

The low-down

Kinhboy

Where: Shop E/66 Regent Street, Redfern

Main attraction: Drinks-friendly, unorthodox Vietnamese cooking that draws on cosmopolitan influences (from ramen broth-making to American barbecuing). Expect the unexpected from chef Peter Wu.

Must-try dish: The banh xeo taco is as fun to eat as it sounds. Get stuck into the brimming, crisp-shelled snack for one and be thankful that you won't have to share.

Insta-worthy dish: Either the banh xeo taco or the 18-hour Kinhboy pho that features a Jurassic-sized beef short rib.

Drinks: Cocktails $17-$20; happy hour specials $10; wine by the glass $10-$17

Prices: Small dishes $13-$20; mains $18-$28; pho $17-$18

Hours: Tue-Wed 5pm-late; Thu-Sat 12pm-3pm, 5pm-late. Closed Monday and Sunday