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Regional reopening brings both excitement and concern for restaurant owners

Dani Valent
Dani Valent

Leah Beamish, owner Bayleaf cafe in Apollo Bay, is excited to be reopening.
Leah Beamish, owner Bayleaf cafe in Apollo Bay, is excited to be reopening. Eddie Jim

Leah Beamish was excited when she heard she could reopen her Apollo Bay cafe to indoor and outdoor dining this week. "I did a little happy dance when I heard the announcement," says the owner of Bay Leaf Cafe. "The staff are all motivated," she says. "They want a reason to get out of bed before noon."

Beamish can serve 10 diners indoors and 16 outdoors, which is 30 per cent of regular capacity. "The numbers are no drama," she says. "The outside tables will be used a lot and I think we'll sell a lot of bacon-and-egg Turkish rolls this weekend."

She's sanguine about COVID-safe rules, including mask-wearing. "Every hour we will go into the backyard for fresh air because masks are horrible to wear the whole day," she says. "But this second lockdown was the proof that we all have to do the right thing or we're never coming out of this. It is what it is."

Daylesford Hotel co-owners Rosi Hebel (left) and Anne-Marie Banting, aren't rushing to open up again.
Daylesford Hotel co-owners Rosi Hebel (left) and Anne-Marie Banting, aren't rushing to open up again. Supplied
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The Great Ocean Road town is normally thronging with overseas tourists, as well as Melbourne sunseekers. "We have a strong local following but when Melbourne opens up it will be fantastic for the whole area," she says. "They tend to have more disposable income."

Anne-Marie Banting owns the Daylesford Hotel, which relies heavily on Melbourne visitors. "There's light at the end of the tunnel but if we just opened to regional trade, we would be at 10 per cent of our normal business," she says. "Even once we have Melbourne, restrictions mean we may still only be at 50 per cent capacity, so it's imperative the government continues to look after us."

Outdoor dining is a marginal proposition in Daylesford until high summer. "The temperature drops dramatically at 4pm," she says. Meantime, Banting is using a state government grant to turn a staff carpark into an expanded beer garden. "On a sunny day, it will be terrific," she says. "By January, I hope we'll be humming."

Brae restaurant plans to reopen in early October, for the wellbeing of staff and the long-term success of the restaurant.
Brae restaurant plans to reopen in early October, for the wellbeing of staff and the long-term success of the restaurant. Colin Page

Staffing issues make reopening tricky for Birregurra fine-dining destination Brae, which has been unable to retain all personnel through a tumultuous six months. "We are facing reopening in early October without a number of key team members," says co-owner Julianne Bagnato. Recruiting is risky when the restaurant is only able to operate at 30 per cent capacity. "There's zero clarity around future allowable diner numbers, which leaves us totally incapable of planning ahead," she says.

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"My phone rang off the hook as soon as reopening was announced," says Josh Friend in Torquay. His seaside restaurant Bomboras has outdoor dining, some of it sheltered. "We are fortunate," he says. "We can do the full 70 people." He usually relies on Melbourne travellers but is confident regional diners will put enough bums on seats for now. "The weather looks fantastic and we are looking forward to a great weekend," he says.

Julianne Bagnato, Brae, Birregurra

Masons of Bendigo is all ready to reopen.
Masons of Bendigo is all ready to reopen. Akuna Photography Bendigo

'We're unlikely to cover costs with the diner numbers we're able to trade at now, but it's a risk we must take - for the mental health and professional development of our team, and the long-term success of Brae.'

Sonia Anthony, Masons of Bendigo, Bendigo

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'There's so much positive energy. It's amazing how quickly things turn around. Once your head stops spinning with all the new information, it's full steam ahead. We're super excited.'

Rob Turner, Northern Ground, Bairnsdale

'We opened on Thursday and it was huge, like a peak summer Friday. The mood was great, people were coming out like it was a celebration. Our hearts go out to Melbourne, though. We look forward to getting them back.'

Leah Beamish, Bay Leaf, Apollo Bay

'I know everyone is suffering financially and I am as well, but it has to be a health response and financially the government is throwing everything at it. It will work out.'

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Josh Friend, Bomboras, Torquay

'We are excited. We rely heavily on Melbourne so the numbers won't be what they could be but we're looking forward to a great weekend.'

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Dani ValentDani Valent is a food writer and restaurant reviewer.

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