Stella's Kitchen at Montague orchard is like a winery restaurant, but for fruit

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THEME: ON FARM

I knew I was going to see fruit trees. I wasn't surprised by rolling hills. But I didn't expect to see a kangaroo swimming while I was lunching at Stella's Kitchen.

A pretty, balanced entree of slow-cooked beef brisket with grilled grown-here peaches had just hit the table when a big eastern grey took a leisurely hop around the edge of the dam below the restaurant's huge, sheltered deck. The roo eased in, then paddled across the waterhole to emerge sleek and dripping on the far side.

The apple-growing Montague family who own this property can't promise marsupial bathing but the new visitor complex at their city-fringe farm is all about engaging rural experiences.

Bill Montague planted his first orchard in 1950 and the family has since pioneered apple cold storage (clever), fruit stickers (argh!) and Jazz apples (yay).

To open their first restaurant, the third generation has partnered with another local food dynasty: Adam Sadiqzai's parents opened Taj Mahal, Windsor's pioneering Indian restaurant, in 1962, and their son has gone on to run all sorts of eateries and catering operations with his Khan's Hospitality Services.

At Stella's core is the idea of showcasing Montague produce, like a winery restaurant but for fruit.

Fresh scones are served with housemade jams, fork-tender confit duck comes with tart blood plums, a vibrant salad of snow peas is tossed with apple cider dressing.

There's tweaking to be done – the menu is a bit formal and the keen but green waitstaff will gain in experience – but classically trained chef Josh Repcen is showing skill and accomplishment in his first head chef outing.

In all, this is shaping up to be an accessible drawcard restaurant, with the set-up screaming "make a day of it!" Fruit picking and packing tours will launch in autumn once the apples ripen. The property adjoins Lysterfield Park, which has walking and biking trails and a lake for swimming and kayaking.

Parking is a cinch and it's barely five minutes from the Monash Freeway. Stella's Kitchen is destination dining – make some time to hop to it.

Stella's Kitchen

Address The Orchard at Montague, 18 Horswood Road, Lysterfield, 03 9658 5912, montague.com.au

Open Daily 8am-4pm

Prices Scones $9; paninis $16; entrees $19-$25; mains $19-$39

Also try

Macca's Farm

On the way to Phillip Island, Macca's Farm is a quirky stop for wheelchair-accessible strawberry picking, free-range pig watching (and eating), local produce buying and down-home country cooking. I love this place!

2185 Dalyston-Glen Forbes Road, Glen Forbes, 0437 367 622, maccasfarm.com.au

Basil's Cafe & Cellar Door

Head to the Bellarine Peninsula to lunch at Basil's Farm. Wine is the original focus but there are also market gardens, ducks and sheep. Local produce features on the menu: think steamed Bellarine mussels and tagliatelle with garden peas.

43-53 Nye Road, Swan Bay, 03 5258 4280, basilsfarm.com.au

Cafe Heronswood

This Digger's Club garden is one of the Mornington Peninsula's treasures and the cafe is open daily for lunch. Eat what's growing by ordering the garden vegetable platter with hummus and goat's cheese. There's also estate-grown rhubarb soda, as well as local beer and wine.

105 Latrobe Parade, Dromana, 03 5984 7318, diggers.com.au