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Sydney restaurants banking on a big Father's Day

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Carol Salloum (right) and sister Sharon, co-owners of Almond Bar in Darlinghurst.
Carol Salloum (right) and sister Sharon, co-owners of Almond Bar in Darlinghurst. Edwina Pickles

Forget the Old Gold chocolate and licorice straps on Father's Day, the best food for spoiling dad is baba ghanouj.

According to Carol Salloum, the owner of Darlinghurst's Almond Bar, the translation of baba ghanouj from Arabic to English is literally "spoiled dad". Fittingly, fathers visiting Salloum's Middle Eastern restaurant next Sunday morning are set to receive a generous amount of the smoky eggplant dip.

"We can't wait to have people back in the restaurant and celebrate Father's Day with a big Syrian breakfast," she says. "Unlike most breakfasts this one is designed to share, which is such a nice thing to do with family."

Nathanial Hatwell on the pour at Dear Saint Eloise, Potts Point.
Nathanial Hatwell on the pour at Dear Saint Eloise, Potts Point.Dominic Lorrimer
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Father's Day will be Almond Bar's first service in more than a month after shuttering at the beginning of August. The restaurant's closure came after a string of coronavirus cases at nearby venues such as Thai Rock and The Apollo in Potts Point.

"Business was going great until those cases were announced, then people just stopped coming in completely," says Salloum. "We thought it was best to close for a few weeks. We couldn't risk Almond Bar becoming a COVID hotspot."

Like many hospitality operators hard hit by the pandemic, Salloum is hoping Father's Day and the arrival of spring will lead to a much needed increase in business.

Smoke Bar at Barangaroo House, which reopens September 3.
Smoke Bar at Barangaroo House, which reopens September 3.Cole Bennetts

In Potts Point, owner-chef Brent Savage kept his Macleay Street restaurants Yellow and Monopole open through August and says revenue fell by 80 per cent.

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"Business is just starting to pick up again now, and we're expecting a great Father's Day at Monopole especially – like Mother's Day, Father's Day is a huge boost for restaurants."

Data from online reservations platform TheFork shows NSW restaurant bookings have increased by around 15 per cent over the past fortnight.

"This week has given us a glimmer of hope," says Nathanial Hatwell, co-owner of Potts Point wine bar Dear Sainte Eloise. "The Apollo reopened on Wednesday and the weather has been great. We're definitely seeing more people about."

Hatwell says Dear Sainte Eloise won't offer a special menu for Father's Day, but if the sunshine holds there will be extra tables set up in the bar's Llankelly Place laneway.

"The terrace is always a good time on Sundays when the laneway is buzzing. I think you're going to see a lot more restaurants with outdoor dining over spring. It's a way to increase customer capacity while keeping guests safe and maintaining a vibe."

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Outdoor dining is also a drawcard at Cirrus, the waterside seafood restaurant Savage co-owns at Barangaroo. Cirrus reopened two weeks ago, serving customers for the first time since lockdown in March.

"We would have opened earlier, but Barangaroo has been a ghost town for the past six months," he says. "Most of the office blocks are still empty, and although more people are visiting the area on weekends, a restaurant can't survive on weekend trade alone."

With social distancing restrictions reducing customer capacity, many Sydney restaurants have introduced a set-menu-only policy to guarantee minimum spend. It's an approach Savage has employed at Yellow, however food at Cirrus has "considerably" reduced in price, he says.

"Accessibility will be key at Barangaroo to encourage people to come down and see us. We're not doing prepaid bookings either: Right now, it needs to be as easy as possible for people to dine at the restaurant. We want to have bums on seats every night."

Eight spots for a Father's Day feast in Sydney

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Almond Bar

Sausages! Sumac eggs! Much baba ghanouj! Spoil dad with the traditional Syrian breakfast he deserves. 379 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst, 02 9380 5318.

Cirrus Dining

Treat the old boy to a top value tasting menu featuring cobia rillettes, crumbed prawns and gold-standard fish-and-chips. Murray cod with wakame and citrus can be added to make things extra special. 23 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, 02 9220 0111.

Chiosco by Ormeggio

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Lunch is booked out at The Spit's hottest spot for spaghetti vongole, but there are still a couple of early dinner slots available to take in a waterside sunset. D'Albora Marina, Spit Road, Mosman, 02 9046 7333.

The Sunday roast at No. 92, Glebe.
The Sunday roast at No. 92, Glebe.A. Boulos

No. 92

Herald restaurant critic Terry Durack reckons this new wine bar is home to "the finest Sunday roast in Sydney". Late lunch spots are still available at the time of writing. 92 Glebe Point Road, Glebe, 02 9571 9292.

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Ragazzi

A tiny amount of tickets are still available for Ragazzi's monthly wine lunch starring fizzy things poured by Piero Tantini of Godot Wines, and a set menu of regional Emilia classics including ragu alla bolognese. Shop 3, 2-12 Angel Place, Sydney, 02 8964 3062.

The Dolphin

Surry Hills' flashest pub is offering a $70 Father's Day steak special featuring 500 grams of bistecca Fiorentina, herb roasted potatoes and a selection of mustards. 412 Crown Street, Surry Hills, 02 9331 4800.

Barangaroo House

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Matt Moran's prototype future-pub returns with a terrific fried chicken sandwich and free Father's Day beer with any main meal ordered at the ground level House Bar. 35 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, 02 8587 5400.

The Dynasty

A yum cha favourite for black truffle dumplings, cheung fun, and drinks at leagues club prices. Canterbury League Club, 26 Bridge Road Belmore, 02 9704 7704.

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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