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Sydney's tourist precincts aim to entice local diners

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

6Head operations manager Troy Mattingly is relying on local support restaurants in The Rocks reopen.
6Head operations manager Troy Mattingly is relying on local support restaurants in The Rocks reopen.James Brickwood

With more than 350 cruise ships visiting Sydney each year, Quay guests hoping for a view of the Opera House over lunch often find themselves looking Pacific Explorer passenger rooms instead of Jorn Utzon sails.

However, the current ban on foreign cruise vessels entering Australian waters means House views are now guaranteed for every service at the Overseas Passenger Terminal fine diner. Quay general manager Nadine Stegmeir says Sydneysiders are taking advantage of the opportunity, too.

"After a tough summer of drought, bushfires and then COVID-19, we were excited to welcome diners back to Quay from June 18. While cautious due to the current climate, we have been incredibly humbled by the response with a really strong uptake from the moment our reservations line opened."

From left, chef Joel Bickford, Matt Moran, Aria co-owner Anna Solomon and sommelier Alex Kirkwood who will be spearheading Aria's new wine bar set to open in October.
From left, chef Joel Bickford, Matt Moran, Aria co-owner Anna Solomon and sommelier Alex Kirkwood who will be spearheading Aria's new wine bar set to open in October.Supplied
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For the vast majority of restaurants, bars and cafes in The Rocks, however, the coronavirus ban on overseas visitors has been devastating. While suburban restaurants return to business-as-usual, Rocks venues once popular with lunch-hunting tourists face a longer road to recovery.

"Most of our neighbouring restaurants are empty, some sadly forced to shut down, and the restaurants that have reopened are trading well below what they were prior to COVID-19," says Troy Mattingly, operations manager at 6Head steakhouse at the Campbells Cove redevelopment.

6Head reopened on Wednesday with new varieties of premium wagyu and a "next level" dry-aging program designed to inspire more Sydney residents to visit the restaurant, says Mattingly.

Restaurants along the Circular Quay foreshore are struggling with the lack of tourist trade due to travel restrictions.
Restaurants along the Circular Quay foreshore are struggling with the lack of tourist trade due to travel restrictions.James Brickwood

"50 per cent of guests [before the pandemic] were international travellers that specifically came to dine while overlooking Sydney's tourist hotspot. Reopening, we will be relying on local support in the area and hopefully see an increase week by week."

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On the opposite side of Circular Quay, chef and restaurateur Matt Moran is turning part of his two-hatted Aria restaurant into a relaxed wine bar, also in an effort to attract more Sydney-based customers. Set to open in October, guests will be able to visit the harbourside bar for cocktails, refined snacks and a choice of 80 wines by the glass and 1700 bottles.

"Traditionally, around 30 per cent of Aria guests have been overseas visitors, so now we need to entice locals to come back into the city," says Moran. "It's not a matter of throwing a few lounge chairs in the space and seeing what happens. We're going to spend a bit of time and money and do it properly."

Opera Bar is yet to reopen while the Opera House remains closed.
Opera Bar is yet to reopen while the Opera House remains closed.James Brickwood

Meanwhile, Aria's dining room will welcome its first guests since social distancing rules were announced this week. However, while the Opera House remains closed, Opera Bar and Bennelong restaurant are still yet to reopen.

"I'm optimistic more venues can start reopening in a safe and profitable way soon, though," says Moran. "I'm definitely noticing more people walking around Circular Quay every week."

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More Sydneysiders are also visiting The Rocks, says Kylie Doulman, director of Place Management NSW which oversees the heritage precinct.

The Fortune of War is pulling schooners again and live music will return in August.
The Fortune of War is pulling schooners again and live music will return in August.Louise Kennerley

"The pandemic had a very sudden impact, with foot traffic in The Rocks down dramatically in April compared to the previous year. Since then we have seen a steady improvement, especially later in the week and on weekends, as locals are returning for a meal or a drink near the harbour."

Place Management has allowed Rocks restaurants and bars to expand outdoor seating, while developing initiatives aimed at bringing more locals to the area. These include cheap parking, a relaunch of The Rocks Market every Saturday and Sunday, and free "blend your own gin" classes with Archie Rose distillery.

"The travel ban that currently exists internationally, and domestically in some states, means locals can explore parts of their own city they may have overlooked in the past," says Doulman.

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"We see this as a great opportunity to entice Sydneysiders back to The Rocks and remind them why people travel from around the world to come here."

Five things to eat and drink in The Rocks

Macarons at La Renaissance Patisserie

Baking top-notch treats for the past 36 years, La Ren is currently serving Tricolore macarons with a whipped vanilla ganache to celebrate Bastille Day on July 14. 47 Argyle Street.

A schooner at the Fortune of War

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The sunburnt British tourists may be missing, but Sydney's oldest pub is still pouring. Live music returns in August. 137 George Street.

Beef brisket with turnip and roasted onion at Pony Dining

It's winter, which means it's time for a big glass of red and fall-apart brisket cooked for 12 hours and covered in beef glaze. Corner of Argyle Street and Kendall Lane.

A martini at Maybe Sammy

White-jacketed bartenders provide charm and refreshment from a bespoke martini trolley which laps the room at this Rat Pack-inspired boozer. 115 Harrington Street.

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Hummus, pita and tatbila at Tayim

The Rocks' first Middle Eastern bar and restaurant is a cosy spot for shawarma-spiced snacks on Nurses' Walk. 34 Harrington Street.

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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