The Fold brings Sri Lanka to the inner west with love (cake)

It's lunchtime at The Fold cafe and we're sitting next to a couple who braved a long, rainy commute to eat some hoppers.

They'd heard a new Sri Lankan eatery had opened in Dulwich Hill and were curious about how the chef would pull off a spicy, sambol-laden brunch. But these are no flaky food tourists.

Born in Sri Lanka and migrating to Sydney in the 1970s, this restaurant-loving pair has since embarked on a mission to seek out the best Sri Lankan food in town.

My partner and I know all this because they are introducing themselves to co-owner Dilki De Hoedt — a warm, energetic presence who takes care of all things front of house. Her husband, Augi De Hoedt, helms the kitchen and is responsible for said hoppers.

These crisp, crepe-like bowls are a staple at the Sri Lankan table. Made with a fermented, coconuty rice flour mixture, the batter is notoriously temperamental and requires a deft hand to get the texture just right.

Too thick, and the edges won't crisp. Too loose and you'll miss out on the soft, spongy belly at the centre that hopper fans adore. Add to it the fact that each hopper is cooked to order and you've got yourself a nail-biting mix.

On this drizzly Sunday, however, the kitchen seems well-oiled and calm. Augi is an old hand at the hopper game. A former chef de cuisine at Crown Casino Perth, he's long dreamed of opening his own eatery before a plan finally surfaced on a family trip early this year.

The idea was to start a Sri Lankan style cafe to fill a gap in the Sydney brunch scene. His sons Travin and Jason - both full-time pastry chefs at Franca Brasserie - would take care of all things sweet along with the help of Travin's fiancee Saaya Takahashi (a pastry chef de partie at Sixpenny).

On the menu, you'll see a surprising mix of the new and the traditional, East and West. An avo on toast (or "butterfruit pann") comes with a tamarind glaze and sprinkles of salted pistachio, and you can order house-made sambol with your sourdough.

Much of the cross-cultural experimentation takes place with the hopper dishes. Brunch staples such as eggs Benedict and shakshouka get a hopper makeover.

The former comes with a paprika hollandaise, poached eggs and sauteed mushrooms on the wafer-crisp shells; the latter, a Sri Lankan take on Travin's favourite Middle Eastern breakfast, featuring his dad's special spice blend.

"Basically the hopper acts like a bowl for all the ingredients and the eggs. And the filling is drier [than a regular shakshouka], so the base doesn't get soggy," says Travin.

For traditionalists, go with the signature appa-appa. You get a mix of plain and runny egg hoppers to use as vessels for a comforting red lentil, chicken or slow-cooked beef and potato curry.

All versions come with two sambols: lunu miris (a tangy shallots, crushed chilli and tomatoey condiment) and seen sambol (an onion, lemongrass and tamarind spliced sambol that has a relish-like quality).

A village pol roti is equally satisfying — with a similar curry-to-sambol configuration, but served with freshly grilled coconut flatbread.

Our discerning brunch neighbours give the thumbs up to the hoppers, with a small gripe that they wished the kitchen would dial up the spices. I am happy with the heat level. And happier still to be picking up a perky, picture-perfect lemon meringue tart for afternoon tea.

If the cake and pastry selection looks impossibly fresh, it's because Travin and his brother Jason stop by the cafe after work most evenings and bake until 4am.

On a good day, you might even spot a slice of Augi's spice laden Sri Lankan love cake, or Takahashi's Instagram-famous Japanese souffle cheesecake — all excellent reasons to make that weekend food commute worth it.

The low-down

The Fold

Where: 402 New Canterbury Road, Dulwich Hill, thefoldsrilankan.com.au

Main attraction: A family-run Sri Lankan cafe headed up by chef Augi De Hoedt. Treat yourself to his wispy-crisp, made-to-order hoppers, then cap off the meal with dreamy, perfectly crafted pastries by his sons Travin and Jason, who are full-time pastry chefs at Franca Brasserie.

Must-try dish: Go down the traditional path with "appa-appa' – a mix of plain and egg hoppers served with two house-made sambols and your choice of a curry.

Insta-worthy dish: The hopper Benedict has that saucy, runny egg (and "Wait, what is this again?") appeal. But anything at the pastry display will get you just as much engagement, really.

Drinks: Coffee $4-$4.50 by Little Marionette; tea by Teacraft $4-$4.50

Prices: All-day menu $7-$24.50

Hours: Mon-Fri 7am-3.30pm; Sat-Sun 8am-3.30pm