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The Marquis of Lorne team open Union House

Tim Grey

Beef carpaccio with fried jerusalem artichokes and salted ricotta.
Beef carpaccio with fried jerusalem artichokes and salted ricotta.Joe Armao

Richmond isn't strictly in need of a pub. But a sister site to Fitzroy's Marquis of Lorne couldn't possibly be surplus to requirements. Partners Ryan Crick (fronting the venue), Steve Rowley, Cal Hitchens, Matt Vero and Will Benjamin have continued their march eastward, taking over the gone-too-soon Union Dining.

Renamed Union House, the Marquis team initiated a plan to "pubify" the bistro, with the help of Alex Lake from Therefore Studio. "It's a platform we're familiar with: a public bar, a dining room and a beer garden," says Benjamin.

To that end, they've established a classic front-bar downstairs, with its tile facade, group tables, high stools, and that rare bird of interior design: carpet. Upstairs, a casual dining room revolves around a Cheminees Philippe fireplace with new banquettes around the edges, which lead outside to the renovated terrace. "It's along the same lines as Marquis of Lorne but a bit more refined," Rowley explains.

Whole flounder in caper butter at Union House.
Whole flounder in caper butter at Union House.Joe Armao
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Hitchens and Benjamin are handling the booze, with five taps devoted to local craft beers from the likes of Sample and Stomping Ground. Head chef Jacob Swain has swapped over from Lorne and is looking to extend on his menu at the Marquis.

Downstairs there are front-bar-friendly schnitzels with gentleman's relish, rockling burgers and chicken pot pies, while upstairs diners there will be beef carpaccio with fried jerusalem artichoke, whole flounder in caper butter, vego options like butternut squash with whey, and opera cake.

Meanwhile, Benjamin, Vero and Hitchens, plus Town Hall Hotel chef Sean Donovan, are doing over Prahran's Mount Erica Hotel. They'll be serving steaks and seafood in October. At the same time Rowley, Vero and his pals from Carnegie's Left Field, Kerrie Townley and Ryan Lording, will open a cafe in Elwood House later that month. Busy, delicious times.

The Marquis of Lorne in Fitzroy.
The Marquis of Lorne in Fitzroy.Supplied

Union House opens August 1, Mon -Thu 4-11pm, Fri-Sat 12-1am, Sun 12-11pm.

270 Swan Street, Richmond, 03 9428 7882

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