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The mother of all days still delivers for Melbourne restaurants, despite lockdowns

Myffy Rigby
Myffy Rigby

Ben Pollard, executive chef at Marion, has been preparing for weeks.
Ben Pollard, executive chef at Marion, has been preparing for weeks. Scott McNaughton

Mother's Day is likely to be a strange one this year. Coronavirus restrictions mean many Melburnianrs won't be with their loved ones tomorrow, perhaps opting for a virtual lunch over webcam instead. Extended family members in the same room will probably, and very rightfully, be maintaining social distancing.

It will be a particularly odd day for restaurants, too - Mother's Day is traditionally the busiest service of the year for many dining venues. While some restaurants remain temporarily shuttered, others have ramped up their takeaway and delivery options to serve more customers than ever before.

At Marion, a Fitzroy wine bar that did a perfect 180 and landed back as a shop and bakery, they've been preparing for weeks. "It's one of the biggest days for us," says executive chef Ben Pollard, who oversees the running of every kitchen in the McConnell Group. That includes Cumulus Inc, Supernormal Canteen, The Builders Arms, Marion, Meatsmith and Cutler and Co.

Cocktails from The Everleigh Co make a stylish present.
Cocktails from The Everleigh Co make a stylish present. Kristoffer Paulsen
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He says the experience of working solidly in a kitchen, preparing meals, without the adrenaline of service attached to it has been really strange. "It's still very satisfying," he says. "I've had a lot of time at home which has been quite nice - it's been good to see my kids grow up."

There's a feeling among some restaurateurs that they're actually doing better out of pickup and delivery than they ever were running restaurants. But then, maybe there's something to be said for the motivation behind being in hospitality.

"We're not looking to make money out of this really," says Pollard. "It's just a way for us to keep our name out there and let everyone know we're still going and letting staff know that the restaurants will open again."

I've had a lot of time at home which has been quite nice - it's been good to see my kids grow up
Ben Pollard

Over at Bar Margaux, 2020 Good Food Guide Bar of the Year, owner Michael Madrusan has also jumped on board with take-home packs for Mother's Day, although he hopes this isn't a permanent fixture for restaurants after lockdown.

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Madrusan, who also owns Heartbreaker Bar, the Everleigh and online pre-batch cocktail service the Everleigh Bottling Co says "this is a great time for people to get accustomed to a way of life that means they don't go out anymore. I think it's super important for people to understand there's a difference between enjoying a night on the couch and a night on the banquettes."

It's the experiential part of the dining puzzle that Madrusan really wants to emphasise. "If we can put in a bottle the way we put it over the bar, then we'll do it. As soon as we start to compromise [on quality] then it no longer becomes worth it."

Michael Madrusan of the Everleigh and Heartbreaker bars has put together take-home cocktails for Mother's Day.
Michael Madrusan of the Everleigh and Heartbreaker bars has put together take-home cocktails for Mother's Day.Karen Woo

Right now, diners are doing the right thing by staying home and staying safe - especially on a day that celebrates loved ones of all ages. But the question of whether, on the other side of the pandemic, staying home and dining in becomes the status quo is one that remains up in the air. "It's going to be a big shock to everyone going back to normal," says Pollard. "I don't think it can, really. Things are going to change."

Last minute Mother's Day solutions

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Still looking to organise something special for Mum at the eleventh hour? Plenty of food and wine options exist.

DRNKS, Melbourne-wide
Oh, dear. You haven't remembered wine, have you? Natural wine drinks delivery service DRNKS to the rescue, not only with booze but also chocolate and scented candles, delivered all week leading up to MD. drnks.com

The Everleigh Bottling Co, Melbourne-wide
Can't be with your loved ones on Sunday? Send a martini gift set (two cocktails and two glasses for $59 is amazing value) and get a second for yourself at half price so you can send each other a virtual cheers. everleighbottling.com

Ichi Ni Nana, Fitzroy and St Kilda
Offering pick up and delivery. ichininana.com.au

Marion, Fitzroy
The crumpets, Basque cheesecake and breads on offer here are a really democratic way to experience some of the McConnell magic - just make sure to put in your order for pick up by 7pm the night before. marionwine.com.au

​Prahran Market, Melbourne-wide
Want to make it yourself and support some local growers while you're at it? Food Lovers Direct is taking delivery orders up until 4pm Saturday, bringing highlights from Prahran market including flowers, seafood, cheese and pasta. prahranmarket.com.au

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Myffy RigbyMyffy Rigby is the former editor of the Good Food Guide.

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