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Three Sydney pubs to wet your post-lockdown whistle

Terry Durack
Terry Durack

Back on tap: Bondi Beach Public Bar.
Back on tap: Bondi Beach Public Bar.Supplied

There's really only one thing we want from a good pub, apart from beer from a keg, and that's the hubbub, warmth and cheeriness of being with our own tribe. Be honest – you missed the pub more than you missed the restaurants, didn't you?

So here's your chance to crawl back into the beery, beautiful mess of your local local. But wait. Is there any point, if you can't mingle at the bar, flirt in the hallway, and play pool out the back?

Yes, of course there is. It's still a pub, even if it's a hipster beach bar, a local boozer run by next-gen restaurateurs, or a neighbourly community centre.

The beef burger from Bondi Beach Public Bar.
The beef burger from Bondi Beach Public Bar.Supplied
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The Bondi Beach Public Bar, Bondi Beach

The big corner bar on Campbell Parade is open to the street and to the sun like any beachside bar, but it has all the life, vibe and joy of a pub. It even sounds like one, as the young crowd order at the bar, chat each other up, and hoover up sweet potato fries and haloumi burgers while hand-hugging schooners and spiced mojitos, ferried efficiently to their tables.

Schooner: The bar's own crisp, lively Friendly Lager is on tap (now $5).

What they do best: Fresh, simple, no-fuss food. The burger (now $10) is a decent handful, the meat smoky from the grill, with a strong lettuce-tomato-onion salad component, orange cheese and tangy bread-and-butter pickles and fries. The bun, for once, isn't too soft.

We HEART: That food, beer and cocktails are all half-price until the end of June.

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Protocols: Names and contacts taken for tracing, three-hour dining window, smartly packaged cutlery in paper sleeves.

Open: Monday to Saturday noon to midnight, Sunday noon-10pm.

203/180 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach, 02 9132 5777. Book online at bbpb.com.au

The brined wing-on chicken supreme at The Unicorn.
The brined wing-on chicken supreme at The Unicorn.Supplied

The Unicorn, Paddington

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Pubs are always louder than restaurants, simply because people are happier in a pub. Even with restricted numbers, a temporary ban on the pool table and no bar seating, this retrofitted Paddington pub is a nice, noisy place to celebrate the return of the pub as we know it. With its wall maps of Australia, Mary's burgers (they are co-owners), and grandpa's favourite snack, Jatz crackers with French onion dip, it's both old world and new.

Schooner: All beers on tap are local and crafty, from Mary's Suds ($7) to Young Henry's Newtowner ($8).

What they do best: The schnitty ($28), a brined, flattened-out and proudly crumbed, wing-on chicken supreme enthroned on a cushion of mashed potato and VERY dark brown gravy. It's a big, thick, uncomplicated serve of crumbed nostalgia, i.e. perfect pub food.

We HEART: The curly parsley garnish. And the cultish crumbed celeriac schnitzel for vegetarians.

Protocols: Order and contactless payment at the counter (X marks the spot), scan and download the app to leave contact information, and hand sanitiser so strong, you'll smell it all day.

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Open: Sunday to Thursday noon to 9pm, Friday and Saturday noon to 10pm.

106 Oxford Street, Paddington. Book online at theunicornhotel.com.au

Signature satay chicken roti taco at The Henson.
Signature satay chicken roti taco at The Henson. Alana Dimou

The Henson, Marrickville

The inner west's Henson has always had a family-friendly vibe, with its leafy beer garden, dedicated children's area and "puppy parking" for our furry friends. For kids, there's a set meal, soft drink and ice-cream for $20, while grown-ups can kick back with dan dan noodles and duck and porcini shepherd's pie. It's inclusive, affordable, unfancy and friendly. Yes, it's quieter than usual, but as owner Ray Reilly says, "Being in the pub in some way, is better than not being in there at all."

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Schooner: Philter Brewing's fruity, cloudy XPA is brewed just down the road ($8).

What they do best: Satay chicken roti taco (two for $17) sees saucy, warmly spiced chicken snuggled into roti bread with crunchy coleslaw and fried onions.

We HEART: The little grocery and grog shop stocked with spirits, wines, cheeses, potato chips and sauces.

Protocols: Contact details taken on entry, social distancing, contactless payment, children seated at all times (hey, do you think we can we keep this one going?)

Open: Wednesday to Saturday 5-8pm.

91 Illawarra Road, Marrickville, 02 9569 5858. Book online at thehenson.com.au

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Terry DurackTerry Durack is the chief restaurant critic for The Sydney Morning Herald and Good Food.

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