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Wave of muffulettas, the turducken of sandwiches, set to sweep Sydney

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Muffuletta at A1 Canteen in Chippendale.
Muffuletta at A1 Canteen in Chippendale.Christopher Pearce

Consider yourselves warned Sydneysiders – if you don't already know what a muffuletta is, you'd better learn quickly or you'll be left behind because the turducken of sandwiches is sweeping Sydney.

The Italian bread of the same name was hijacked by Sicilian immigrants in New Orleans, who stuffed it, Homer Simpson-style, with more ingredients than any sane sandwich maker has any business to. Mortadella, provolone, the list goes on.

A muffuletta war is brewing in Chippendale, where Clayton Wells' A1 Canteen broke muffuletta ground and James Metcalfe's soon-to-open Saint George around the corner is set to encroach with a muffuletta of its own. Potts Point is also about to get a new muffuletta.

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Mike Mu Sung, the former est and Sixpenny chef behind The Farmhouse in Kings Cross, has nabbed the previous home of Marcelle on Macleay Street, where he'll open J&S on Macleay next month and serve Little Marionette coffee, soups and a muffuletta.

He describes his version - a long-time staple at his first sandwich-driven venue Jeremy & Sons - as a smaller, simpler version than the ones sweeping town. A creation you don't need a Julia Roberts-sized mouth to get it.

And Metcalfe says his muffuletta affliction isn't a new – he's been whipping them up since stumbling on them five years ago in New Orleans researching his menu for The Bourbon.

The Saint George version leans on his own tastes: "I much prefer it toasted than fresh, so all the cheese melts around the meats."

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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