The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

It's time for Australia to regulate as lab-grown and other meat alternatives loom

Nick Doyle

The Impossible Burger, made with a vegan meat-like patty and served at a number of restaurants, including Momofuku Nishi in New York.
The Impossible Burger, made with a vegan meat-like patty and served at a number of restaurants, including Momofuku Nishi in New York.Supplied

COMMENT

Our eating habits are changing. Weekday vegetarianism is on the rise and more people are sacrificing animal products for trendy alternatives – here's looking at you, macadamia milk. Whether these changes in behaviour are fuelled by ethical concerns or health reasons ("I want to lose five kilograms so I can look hot on Insta"), the result is that we are seeing an increase in the offering of non-meat alternatives on the market.

The emergence of laboratory-grown meat is causing a fuss in America, particularly in relation to what these products should be called. The term "clean meat" is used to describe products grown by replicating animal cells. Clean meat is generally manufactured using a small number of cells from the type of animal the food is intended to resemble. These products, though not yet commercially available, have been endorsed by startups, traditional meat processors and celebrities.

The $67 billion American meat industry has taken issue with the term "clean meat" on the basis that it lends itself to the implication that "traditional" meat is dirty. In response, the industry has attempted to claim ownership of the term "meat", with some success. Most recently, Missouri became the first US state to pass a law preventing food producers from labelling goods as "meat" if the product did not originate from harvested livestock or poultry. France has also banned the use of meat-like terms on plant-based alternatives.

My issue with correct labelling is that consumers should be patently aware of what they're buying, consuming and feeding their families. I don't have any gripes against meat alternatives, but understand that there should be a clear market differentiation from traditional meat products.

Advertisement

However, is it wrong to limit the application of the word "meat" to traditional agricultural products? Foods such as mushrooms and nuts are often described as having a meat-like quality. Further, plant-based companies must surely rely on a meat-based comparison to increase sales and make their products more attractive. Those of us who have consumed plant-based alternatives such as "facon" are usually aware of the differences in flavour and texture. However, the closer the meat alternatives resemble traditional meat products, the greater the need for transparency in their marketing and promotion.

Any attempt in Australia to provide clarity or ownership to the term "meat" should come from our regulators – but from which perspective should regulators intervene? Should it be from a consumer affairs angle, to avoid any instances of misleading or deceptive conduct? Should it be to protect the integrity of our domestic traditional meat industry? Or should it be regulated from a food, health and safety perspective so that Australian consumers know what they're buying?

If lab-grown meat enters the Australian market without any regulation, there may be the potential for legal action as seen in foreign jurisdictions.

I am a conscious eater myself and regularly go days being vegetarian. When buying meat, I tend to opt for grass-fed and organic products because I believe in feeding myself well and in supporting sustainable farming practices. When clean meat enters the Australian market, I would have no issue consuming it – especially as a more sustainable and humane meat alternative. But I would like it to be labelled as such so I can know what I'm putting into my body – whether it be traditional meat or a scientific alternative.

Nick Doyle is a former lawyer, current business development professional, Good Food reader and self-described MasterChef Australia failure.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement