Why wait for dinner to enjoy these Peruvian treats?

Let's face it: lunch dates are underrated. We all know that brunch is where the best caffeine-aided gossips are traded; drinks equals fun; and dinner says "I like you enough to spend the evening drinking overpriced wine and compromise on food choices".

But at Marrickville's Pepito's, weekend lunches are taken seriously. Owner Jose Alkon and his team might even have you knocking back some "tiger's milk" with a shot of pisco – that famous Peruvian spirit – if you let him.

Last November, the handsome Peruvian-inspired taberna started opening their doors for Friday and Saturday lunches.

This means serving their full menu from noon every weekend – an option that's uncommon in small-scale eateries, especially if their line-up involves delicate, drinks-friendly dishes.

This is where Pepito's heritage comes in. In Peru, tabernas are buzzy, low-key haunts that serve food and drinks around the clock. It's the vision Alkon had for his eatery: a neighbourhood go-to where a midday meal can be an exciting, even celebrated event.

"Tabernas are historic institutions run by families," says Alkon. "They're usually very bohemian and loud, with a lot of [regulars] hanging around. There'd be an artist sitting next to a lawyer, next to a politician. Everyone is welcome and it's a lively and fun atmosphere."

A cinematographer by trade, Alkon drew on his background in film to craft the eatery's look and feel. Pepito's weather-worn archway, original tiling and vintage framed photos all add to that "special outing" atmosphere, where suddenly, a daytime cocktail might not feel like a bad idea.

Try the excellent pisco punch or Chilcano acholado (boozy ginger ale) – the lime and ginger notes both pair well with food.

Alkon's wines are also chosen with Peruvian cooking in mind. "A lot of our wine has a strong acid baseline to go against the spices," he says.

Kick off the meal with some choros a la Chalaca. The plump, just-cooked mussels are served on the half shell and chilled so they have the vibe of fresh oysters. Topped with an oniony lime salsa (the "Chalaca" style garnish), it's a perfect summer appetiser.

The causa de camarone is a deconstructed layered potato terrine, jazzed up with savoury dollops of olive aioli.

"That dish in Peru has a lot of history. Causa stands for 'the cause'. Back in the day when there was a war between countries in Peru, women would get together to make this dish to feed the army. It's usually more like a lasagne. Layers of potatoes, avocado and seafood – like a little tower."

Don't skip the "leche de tigre" (tiger's milk) – the closest thing to ceviche you'll find on the menu.

Inspired by a dish served in Al Toke Pez, a tiny cevicheria in Peru, Pepito's version involves cubes of Hiramasa kingfish and diced prawns cured in a tangy lime, ginger, garlic and onion marinade (the leche de tigre), then topped with fried calamari.

The waitress asks us to shoot back the limey liquid after we're done. "You can also add a shot of pisco in it. That drink at the end just wakes you up," Alkon says, laughing.

And while the papa a la Huancaina (fluffy fried potatoes with a Peruvian chilli cheese sauce) is a must for carb lovers, it's wise to save room for some anticuchos (grilled skewers).

The popular Peruvian street food is born of an effort to turn cheap cuts of meat into tasty, smoky morsels.

We try the setas (mushrooms) – a vegetarian spin on the dish – and were impressed by the tamari and panca chilli glaze which give the grilled criminis a rich, "meaty" flavour.

On Sundays, a five-course Menu Turistico replaces the regular line-up. For $65, Alkon serves up hearty, off-menu numbers like grilled scampi, seafood rice and roast quail.

"In Peru, Sunday lunches is a big thing. However, we're finding that in Australia there's more of a brunch culture. So we're trying to bring [that back] … make it a reason to celebrate and have an awesome lunch."

The low-down

Pepito's​

Where: 276 Illawarra Road, Marrickville, pepitos.com.au

Main attraction: A modern Peruvian "taberna" that serves intricate, drinks-friendly shared plates for Friday and Saturday lunch. Stop by on Sunday for a five-course set menu that featured anything from seafood rice to roast quail.

Must-try dish: The "leche de tigre" (tiger's milk). It's Pepito's take on a beloved Peruvian cevicheria's trademark dish, with Hiramasa kingfish, diced prawns and fried calamari in a tangy lime marinade.

Insta-worthy dish: Get the colourful choros a la Chalaca (chilled mussels), which are served on the half shell and have the vibe of fresh oysters.

Drinks: Wine by the glass $14-$15; cocktails $15-$20

Prices: Shared plates $12-$25; sandwiches $8-$10; five-course Sunday lunch (Menu Turistico) $65

Hours: Wed-Thur 5pm-late, Fri-Sat 12pm-late, Sun 12-5pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday