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Epocha

Epocha, restaurant, Carlton, Melbourne.
Epocha, restaurant, Carlton, Melbourne.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

European$$

The giant old clock in the dining room is a reminder of the changes time has brought to this grand Victorian terrace. It has had many lives before its current happy incarnation as a restaurant. Angie Giannakodakis (ex-Press Club) and Guy Holder bring together exceptional hospitality skills and a keen eye for every detail. Don't be fooled by the apparent informality of shared plates and the mixture of new and second-hand furniture and crockery. the service and wine knowledge are top-notch. The mood is welcoming and relaxed, the food Mediterranean, the noise levels buzzy (not booming). Start with mini-crumpets and honey with black salt, or mushroom-filled arancini, share grilled octopus on a fava bean puree, or tiny stuffed eggplant with red peppers and lemon crumbs, feast on the roast bird of the day, or the pork combination. Finish with cheeses or dessert from the trolleys. The chocolate gateau is a triumph of intense flavour without weight.

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