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Esquire

Esquire boasts river views.
Esquire boasts river views.Michelle Smith

18/20

Contemporary$$$

Brisbane Times Good Food Guide 2016

Vittoria Coffee Restaurant of the Year

Most of the Esquire performance is nothing short of masterful: precision-drilled staff, a thought-provoking trail of goods from the kitchens, a spacious room carefully littered with bespoke furniture and a view that would be quite breathtaking if it took precedence over the theatre of the kitchens ... which it doesn't.

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Japanese sweet potato and black olive, served on a stone.
Japanese sweet potato and black olive, served on a stone.Michelle Smith

It's a world-class restaurant toting a very good but sadly not quite world-class drinks list. That's the only blemish on its otherwise perfect hide.

The meal comes as a multi-course degustation (think late teens in number) that is timed to perfection. The early courses follow hot on each other's heels; breathing space prevails as the meal progresses.

And that degustation morphs on a regular basis to take advantage of often obscure and, usually, local 'finds': Moreton Bay catfish (firm, delicate, startling); wagyu calotte grilled over coals with a generous line of grated horseradish; slivers of house-smoked mackerel draped over a rock.

It's a culinary roller-coaster that's equal parts kitchen alchemy, art, breathtaking imagination and just plain good cooking.

Vibe Sleek, modern, polished and unique.

Pro tip There's a 'taste' option for the wines by the glass ... use it.

Drinks Cosmopolitan wine list with reasonable prices and a good glass array. Beers? Hmm

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