Estivo

This long-term Kew favourite has seen some changes in its time - and not the least is in the neighbourhood. Once it stood nearly alone for local residents wanting a smart lunch or dinner. Now it is in the company of other lively restaurants. White walls and cloths give it a clean, brisk air, softened by the warmth of the waiting staff. A change of chef in 2013 means a change in the style of cooking; dishes tend to be busy with components, and portions might seem a bit small to those with hearty appetites. A wagyu carpaccio comes as a small dish, with curls of meat and parmesan and a flurry of microherbs and chive tips. Some dishes work better than others. magret of duck with purees of peas and kumara is colourful but its flavours can be confused by the sauces. Desserts come up trumps, like the fabulously rich chocolate fondant with chocolate ganache, brightened by creme fraiche and raspberry compote.