40 Bayswater Road Rushcutters Bay, New South Wales 2011

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Opening hours L Sun; D Wed-Sun; bookings deposit required
Features Accepts bookings
Prices Expensive (mains over $40)
Chef Mike Mu Sung, Andrew Murace
Seats 20
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 0448 413 791

The more the disconnect between city and country grows, the more we crave the old-fashioned values of country life. Hence the innate appeal of this cute, cosy wooden-clad dining room, serving a four-course, seasonally driven menu twice-nightly to a communal table for 20. The restaurant's designer, Nicholas Gurney, runs the floor, while young chefs Mike Mu Sung and Tristan Rosier (both ex-est.) make almost everything from scratch. A typical dinner could start with darkly fossilised, crisply fried potato skins playing off a whippy aioli and dense, just-baked potato bread, and follow with silky citrus-cured ocean trout with crisp rye crumbs, yoghurt and shaved fennel. A rough-and-tumble share plate of roast spatchcock, caramelised onions, wilted kale and bready stuffing is a Gen Y Sunday roast, and a fruit-based dessert is followed - surprise - with a slice of freshly baked cake. It's like a dinner party with 19 of your closest hipster friends, and joy of joys, no dishes to wash.