Fitzrovia

With its chic farmers' market styling and a chef who's worked at London's River Cafe, Fitzrovia was swiftly embraced by savvy St Kilda locals. Featuring pressed-metal ceilings, exposed brick walls and a large open kitchen with decoratively dangling pots, Fitzrovia is elegantly rustic - like its food. The grazing craze is avoided here - the emphasis, rather, is on comforting, fully fledged meals, using seasonal produce, with influences from the Mediterranean to the East. Breakfasts might include an indulgent creme brulee French toast, or simpler fresh figs and ricotta on grilled sourdough. For dinner, start perhaps with spicy Sichuan-style calamari. Less successful might be the too-chilly salmon rillettes with sourdough soldiers. Beef cheek braised overnight in Red Hill scotch ale is unforgettably tender. The fish might be an unusually hearty combination of roasted leatherjacket served with borlotti beans braised in Lardo di Colonnata (cured pork fat). Desserts such as a warm apple and cinnamon cake are delectably no-fuss.