Flower Drum

WHERE AND WHAT

The name Flower Drum rarely makes it into print these days without the word ''venerable'' attached to it. That's the price you pay for being in business for 36 years (the past 26 at the current Market Lane address). Melbourne's Cantonese gastro-temple is venerable, yes, but under the guidance of young and dynamic maitre d' Jason Lui - son of long-term executive chef and co-owner Anthony Lui - it has found a new lease on life. Gone is the sepulchral atmosphere and menu that hadn't changed in 25 years. In its place is a more modern and relevant restaurant that, without compromising on its standards, has injected energy, enthusiasm and some exciting new dishes.

WHERE TO SIT

They say the further away you're seated from the Flower Drum's lift the more important you are. But they would say that, wouldn't they? The tables are spaced so widely over the expanse of red carpet that there really aren't any bad seats in the house - although it would be hard to fight the surge of pride on being led to the inner sanctum past the kitchen doors.

WHEN TO GO

The business lunch is alive and well at Flower Drum, where tables of suits abandon the idea of going back to the office and kick on to cocktail hour. Catch lunch Monday to Saturday; dinner is every night of the week.

DRINK

The wine list has been given a makeover, courtesy of Randolph Cheung (ex-Asiana) who has injected boutique names and more unusual varietals among the usual big names.

EAT

To quell another rumour about Flower Drum, it isn't prohibitively expensive - unless your order runs to abalone followed by shark fin soup followed by whole suckling pig (two days' notice required, $480). In fact, the Drum stands up reasonably to its fine-dining competition - even more so now the menu has embraced the Zeitgeist and introduced smaller share-worthy dishes. Kick off with some of chef Lui's exquisite seafood dishes - the mud crab baked with turmeric-spiked custard ($25), thinly sliced pearl meat wok-fried with spring onion ($25), or the incredibly elastic noodles made from wild barramundi meat and Chinese pork sausage and seasoned with a hint of tangerine zest ($18). Sweet and sour has been banished but they'll never turn their backs on the classic beauty of steamed dim sum, or their Peking duck served with a due sense of theatre.

WHO'S THERE

Captains of industry, tourists, businessmen and birthday-celebrating Asian families.

WHY BOTHER?

Because Flower Drum once again deserves the hype.

Flower Drum

17 Market Lane, city, phone 9662 3655